Narni/Nera River Valley (full-day) (*NB:
I'm often asked about my favorite tour: not easy to say but... this
is certainly one of them!)
Off to Narni, medieval hilltown of Roman origins (about one hour
from Assisi) whose truly "hidden secrets" are to be savored - before
mass tourism arrives (as of now, only one place to find a postcard
or two!). We'll visit the Duomo which incorporates fascinating Roman
and early Christian heritage - and then explore (with the assistance
of a local expert) recently-discovered subterranean curiosities:
a frescoed 12th c. church (found under the foundations of a 13th
c. church above!), Roman cistern, vestiges of the Roman aqueducts
and... well... an incredible sight to be seen, not explained beforehand!
We'll enjoy lunch in a family-run trattoria
where we'll savor specialties of the area.
After lunch, on through the
stupendous Nera River Valley to visit a recently-restored 8th c.
Lombard abbey church - nestled in the mountains - whose extraordinary
frescoes represent the most important pre-Giotto fresco cycle in
Umbria. Here, too, the wonders of the abbey will be shared with
us by a local who - as she says - "was practically born here" (her
father farmed the surrounding lands). Our ride back to the Assisi
area will take us through one of the most dramatic stretches of
landscape in all of Umbria.
Bevagna/Montefalco (full-day)
- revised! Our
Bevagna tour takes in not only the Roman mosaics and an exquisite
gem of a 19th c. theater but also includes stops at the local tailor's
and a family-run butcher shop (here, Italy's top chef chooses not
just all his meats but also the prosciutto and percorino cheeses
for his world-famous restaurant in western Umbria). We'll taste
a couple of their specialties - and then move on to try those of
the local pasticceria (bakery) owned by a friend's family.
Simple but delicious sweets, including those carried in saddlebags
by the medieval pilgrims, the chewy cavallucci (from cavallo
= "horse"). Afterwards, we'll step into the remains of
the 1st AD Roman amphitheater where artisan Francesco will fascinate
us with his demonstration of how rag paper was made in the Middle
Ages.
Bevagna - from butcher to baker to her monuments - offers "full
immersion" into medieval history. All that is unique about
Bevanga is best synthesized in our special last stop: a visit to
a merchant's home of the Middle Ages. (Return to the 13th century.
You are there. Thanks to the efforts and passione of a newly-formed
Bevignate cultural association, Compagnia delle Arti.)
Added optional highlight (for groups of
minimum 6 persons): lunch in a private home of the medieval epoch.
Menu: authentically medieval (thanks to the careful culinary research
of the Compagnia).
After lunch, on to nearby Montefalco, "balcony of Umbria"
where we will visit the medieval church of San Francesco, now an
extraordinary art museum of medieval and Renaissance art. Afterwards,
a walk through the winding streets with a stop for a glass of the
famed local wine Sagrantino... and for those interested in
textiles, Montefalco is a "must" destination!
*This tour
may be booked as a private tour or as an IN-COMPAGNIA
tour (ie, open to others - date of your choice)
Bevagna/Spello (full-day) After
our tour of Bevagna (see above) and lunch, on to Spello.
Built in the local pink limestone, bellissimo Spello (of
Roman origins) captivates- right from one's first glimpse. Our stroll
through cobbled backstreets will lead us to Roman city gates, Romanesque
churches, delightful hidden courtyards... and to one of the most
exquisite Renaissance fresco cycles in all of Umbria (and my personal
favorite).
Here, too, we'll meet the locals
and a friar artisan will surprise us with his crafts... and show
us a 13th c. refectory and cloister not open to the public. We'll
end our tour with tastings of fine wines, Umbria's best olive oils,
wild boar salami, truffled cheeses and more in a medieval wine cellar.
Our host: one of the area's top sommeliers.
Montefalco (half-day) Perched on the highest hill in the surrounding
area, thus called "the balcony of Umbria", Montefalco overlooks
rolling hills of olive groves and vineyards where the famous Sagrantino
grapes are cultivated. Famous for its wines and textiles, Montefalco
also boasts a superb art museum, housed in a 13th c. Franciscan
church. After a visit to the museum, a taste of the local wines....
Montefalco and Nostalgia Cuisine This tour is dedicated to Vince and Marie, tour-clients-now-friends,
who eagerly said "si!" when I proposed this to them
as a new tour during their recent stay in Umbria. They were enthusiastic
about our day together so I have turned it into a tour to offer
to others.
If you love art and history, enjoy meeting the "locals",
appreciate magnificent "off-the -beaten path" landscapes
AND want to taste the BEST of our Umbrian cuisine, this tour is
for you.
Our day starts in Montefalco, "balcony of Umbria", famed
for its textiles, Sagrantino wine, frescoed church-now-museum
and mozzafiato ("breath-cutting"!) views of the
surrounding Umbrian landscape. We'll start with morning coffee
in the historic family-villa-hotel of a friend, just outside the
town's medieval walls. Our walk through Montefalco's charming
backstreets will take us to a most fascinating church with curious
relics - which the nuns in the adjacent convent will show us with
great pride. We'll even enter their 14th century convent for a
private visit - to view many of their cherished "hidden treasures".
Our Montefalco visit will wind up at the superb museum of Umbrian
fresco masterpieces from the 13th - 16th c. - and afterwards,
an aperitif, logicamente! of the famous Sagrantino.
After our aesthetic "appetites" have been appeased,
we'll drive through the gently-undulating hills of the Umbrian
("Italy's green heart") countryside for lunch at a truly
amazing family-run restaurant - which my husband Pino and I "discovered"
recently while on a Sunday drive. That day, we took one bite of
our lunch, looked at each other and I said to Pino , "mamma
mia, come una volta" (or "like once upon a time").
Signora Mirella (assisted by her daughter-in-law Maria Luisa)
cooks traditional Umbrian cuisine - the way the rural people cooked
here 40 - 50 years ago (and the way our farm neighbors cooked
when we worked the land with them in the late 70's). Nearly a
"lost" cuisine: Nostalgia cuisine. Signora Mirella should
be declared a "national treasure".
Her son Maurizio will serve us at table with warmth and pride.
The family has a small farm and the wine, olive oil, chickens,
eggs, and many of the vegetables are of their own production.
The delectable ricotta di pecora (sheep's milk ricotta)
is produced at the adjoining farm. Maurizio wanted to open a restaurant
in 1993 and urged his mother into the kitchen. Signora Mirella
is now 72 years old and happiest in the midst of her pots, pans
and enticing aromas. Maurizio laments that now he can never get
her OUT of the kitchen!
After our lunch, we'll stop at a nearby 12th century countryside
church - a wonder of unrestored Romanesque (not easy to find!)
architecture. Join us for this truly unique day.
Here are Marie andVince'scomments: Vince: "My concept of going on vacation is all about incorporating
different experiences... we enjoy the art and the architecture
but we also look for real 'food and people' experiences - no
guide book recommendations would give us what Annie did. We
had insights and experiences that no one else could have given
us. If there's a door, Annie has her foot in it!"... Marie: "We had true 'people food'... rural gourmet
with Maurizio..." Vince and Marie Ingenito, White Plains, NY
... don't forget to check out comments below as well!
Living the Middle Ages in Bevagna
The backdrop for this day of full immersion into medieval life
and culture is Bevagna, medieval town of Roman origins located
in the Valle Umbra Nord, Umbria's largest valley which is ringed
by the hilltowns of Montefalco, Spello, Assisi, Trevi, Bettona.
Who will enjoy this tour?
Those (adults and children!) who:
* wish to interact with "the locals"
*enjoy medieval ambience in the "pure state", ie, without
the countours of tourism
*are interested in medieval history and architecture
*enjoy savoring typical - yet most unique - regional flavors,
present and past!
Our walk through the town will include a gem of a frescoed 18th
c. tiny theater, an unrestored 12th c Romanesque church, the 1st
AD site of the Roman baths... and Roman sites not open to the
public.
Stops to visit the "locals" can include:
* the town's (last) tailor
* a butcher made famous as supplier of Italy's most renowned chef
(tastings there of gourmet salami, prosciutto, pecorino cheese
- and porchetta, if we're lucky!)
* the local bakery and tastings once more! including a sweet which
nourished pilgrims in the Middle Ages
*(...and if we run into an elderly local historian, he will show
us special Bevagna treasures).
Inside the ruins of the 1st AD Roman theater, local artisan, Francesco,
will demonstrate paper-making in the Middle Ages, activating astounding
machinery first built in 1270!.
In the ambience directly above, we will step into at 1300 AD merchant's
home of Bevagna, lovingly recreated very recently by a small local
cultural association. Having recourse to very few written documents
which could describe a medieval interior, the group relied extensively
on visual representations in the frescoes of the area's medieval
churches. For example, the bed is pictured in the fresco cycle
attributed to Giotto (1300) in the Basilica di San Francesco in
Assisi! Our guided tour of this medieval home offers fascinating
insights into medieval life - and we will have lunch there as
well. We'll learn about authentic medieval cuisine as we savor
it!
Our day will conclude with a visit to the lovely 15th c private
home next door. We''ll enjoy coffee with our hostess on the upper
level terrace - with 360° views over the terracotta rooftops
of Bevagna, where the past lives on so tranquilly.
*DELUXE FULL MEDIEVAL IMMERSION
For groups of 8+, our Bevagna tour could start in the early afternoon,
concluding with a banquet/dinner in the medieval house, in costume
- and enhanced with medieval music and festivities typical of
a medieval convivio.
Absolutely guaranteed to make your visit to Umbria the trip of
a lifetime.
Bevagna comments
"When I heard that we were going to
Umbria, I thought, 'What is Umbria?' but Annie helped us understand
and I learned alot from her in 2 days. In Bevagna, we at medieval
lunch in a medieval house...and we ate REALLY good food!* Annie
knows alot of people and overall, Annie is great. I used to like
Chinese food but now I like medieval Umbrian food best!" Itai Barsade, age 10, Wynnewood, PA
*NB. Itai is generally a fussy eater, I was told! AR
"Bevagna
- an experience not to be missed! Seeing the Chiesa of San Silvestro
moved me to tears. A medieval meal with Cristina was like real
time traveling! Incredible!" Toni Galli Sterling, San Rafael, CA
"Bevagna
is a great place. The lunch was amazing. I think I would want to do it again." Nick Sterling (age 11), San Rafael, CA
"From
meeting the local entrepreneurs to the sit- down medieval dinner,
it was a historical experience, an experience not to be forgotten." Sara Siwanowicz, Melbourne, FL
"Bevagna
- the medieval experience was interesting. Thank you for the opportunity.
The paper making was exquisite. The challenges that the European
middle ages citizens faced were interesting to learn about. The
churches were very beautiful. The frescoes depict such timeless
scenes in history. The Roman well was very deep and beautiful.
Thank you so much Anne for a lovely experience of a lifetime." Caitlin Wolf (age 14), Carmel, Indiana
"The
medieval lunch in Bevagna? It surpassed my greatest expectation
of a medieval eating experience!" Steve Lamanna, Spokane, WA
"In
Bevagna we had an "insider's look" into its life. We
stopped for a chat with the tailor and his cronies and then onto
the butcher shop and met the prettiest butcher you will ever meet
and tasted an array of cured meats, cheeses and fresh sheep's
milk ricotta. Next was the baker, another tasting of delicious
cookies and then, not the candle stick maker but the paper maker!
You step through the shop and you are transported back in time
- as far back as the Roman era. A local professor and old friend
of Annie's showed us curiosities and gave us a tour of the 19th
century "jewel box" theater and regaled us with stories
of his youth in Bevagna. If we had come on our own, without Annie,
we would have seen Bevagna, but not experienced it." Vince and Marie Ingenito, White Plains, NY
"Dear
Annie, I loved the Bevagna day! It's such a little jewel of
a town. I read somewhere that when you stand in the piazza,
every building you see was built before the 14th century... and
it certainly seemed like it! Wonderful to see remains of Roman
culture. We also loved the perfectly preserved 19th century theater.
So many riches in one town and very few tourists to contend
with.
The lunch was also terrific. Our warm and welcoming hostess
taught us a great deal about medieval history as well as cuisine.
The post lunch demonstration of medieval papermaking techniques
was fascinating !
Having you as a guide was very special. You are so knowledgeable
and are excellent at conveying that knowledge to your listeners.
I loved having a tour that recognized we are intelligent people,
interested in learning more. I get so tired of things that are
"dumbed down". Thanks for making our trip to Italy so
special!" Wynn E. Strahle, Denver, CO 7/2005
Comments Bevagna
"The highlight for all 11 of us was touring with you in
Umbria. I will never forget our 'fairy tale' day in Bevagna.
The tailor, the butcher, the paper maker, aperitifs with your dear
friend and to top it off, lunch in a spectacular restored Roman
theater! You must encourage your clients to take advantage of this
day. We can hardly wait to return, with your suggestions, of course." Judy and Tom Lewis, Plymouth, Michigan (11/2005)
"Anne’s tour of Bevagna had us both into past centuries and into the heart of contemporary Bevagna. We saw the remains of Roman and medieval times, and how today’s artisans keep up, adapt or revive Bevagna’s legacy of arts and crafts. With her many local contacts and knowledge of Umbrian history and art, Anne took us “behind the scenes” to places and people we’d have been unlikely to find on our own. Anne has a great nose for “hidden treasures” and, even in the sloshing rain, she took every opportunity for a detour to make our tour memorable." Joyce Statton, Vancouver, Canada (5/2007)
"Bevagna... what a jewel! And our medieval luncheon,
authentic surroundings, music and all was truly a delight. Our most
charming hostess Christine gave us a look into life so long ago
in her warm and welcoming home. Thank you, Annie, for yet another
glimpse into my favorite country." Pamela Moye, Denver, CO, 4/2005
"Many thanks, Anne, for your help in our great 2 week trip, so full of lots of wonderful memories. We've been regaling my parents with our new found knowledge of Italy via 'Anna the Americana'. We can't thank you enough for such a great time and inviting us to Christine's home in Bevagna for the medieval dinner and all the wonderful tours! What an adventure."
Nancy and Brant Dahlfors
"The highlight of our stay in Italy had to be our fantastic day with Anne and, particularly, our afternoon in Bevagna... and the highlight of Bevagna was the authentic medieval meal she arranged for us... in a medieval home in Bevagna! The home had been "transformed" into a merchant's home of 1300 - and we learnt all about life then while touring the home. Our meal: every course was a tasty delicacy, but be careful that you save room for the most delicious cookies on the planet which you will only find in Bevagna. This was definitely not just any guided tour...what an experience!" Maeve McGrath, Vail, CO
"Our Bevagna
tour lasted about about 3 hours of our time, every minute mesmerizing.
We had visited Italy many times in the past, but never had we
seen a town the way we saw this town. A beautiful hidden theatre,
a replicated merchant's home, local shopowners, people who clearly
love Anne and give her groups an added insight into life in Bevagna.
Then Spello. The wine-tasting was unbelievable! Today, we
still clang our wine glasses which we were able to buy after the
event. I don't know which was better, their own olive oil, or all
the special wines we were served. Then more unusual visits and
the end of the most in-depth, personal experience we have ever had
in our favorite country outside the U.S. And the beginning of
a new friendship with Anne Robichaud, a very special person." Wendy Stuart, East Orleans, MA (May '04)
Montefalco and Nostalgia Cuisine
"Our meal that day and the entire tour was the best experience I have ever had in Europe!" Susan and Harvey Dunn, Evergreen, CO
"Informative and fun... this "Umbria experience": The food was wonderful and Anne: GREAT!" Sue Fair, Santa Barbara, CA
"A wonderful sojourn into history, culture and cuisine. Recommended to all who want to experience the ultimate Umbrian experience. Benissimo!" Dan and Nancy Elliott, Carmel, IN
"Unbelieveable! Anne is fabulous, charming and very informative... Viva Umbria!" Sarah Camour, Evergreen, CO
"Wonderful tour... meeting that nun in the cloistered convent... we saw sites not generally available to the public. The meal at the restaurant on the farm was fabulous... superb. Recommended to anyone who enjoys great food - and "inside" experiences." Clint Bell, Blaine, WA
Narni
"Thanks so very
much again for that marvelous tour to Narni. For my wife
and I, it was the highlight of our trip to Italy this spring.
As always, you found areas of unique interest in a village that
many of us had driven by but never visited. Like most of your tours,
however, we would not have really 'seen' it until it was re-visioned
by your ability to recount Italian and Renaissance history so skillfully." Dr. Tom Carey, Denver, CO
"For the Best Guide in Umbria, contact
Anne Robichaud. Her tours of Narni and Bevagna, small medieval towns
that one might overlook if not for Anne's well informed, interesting
and humorous lecture/tours. Had we ventured into these towns
on our own, we never would have uncovered their hidden wonders.
None of the things that were shown to us by Anne, were mentioned
in the guidebooks. Anne takes us through the secret places deep
under the basilicas, to the local shops and artists studios, she
translates local stories, gossip and customs of the times and of
the present. Please do not miss an opportunity to have Anne show
you her Italy." Dori Marler, Tarzana, CA
"Our visit to Narni was an amazing trek.
Highlight: the tour of the 'underground church' led by a woman
who was one of the people who rediscovered it! Feeling her passion
and listening to her story through your translation will stay with
me through my life. Thanks for a 5 star day." Claire Hopkins, Tacoma, WA
"Thanks to Anne,
Bevagna and Spello became much more than two dimensional Italian
towns. Not only did we gain insight into the history, art and architecture
of these delightful hidden treasures but we had a virtual reality
experience through the welcome, comments and insight of the local
residents. Whether the tailor, pasta cook, local history professor,
chef or parish priest, all contributed to our discoveries. A
day filled with a most unusual smorgasbord of Umbrian treats." Tom Morrison, Jasper, Georgia
"Bevagna with Annie: an Umbria that
I will always remember... we met a tailor at work who shared
some of his story of how tailoring has been an art for generations
in his family. We had a personal 'backstage' tour of the lovely
frescoed theater... and met a retired professor/historian who made
Bevagna's beginnings come alive for us. We visited a family 'palazzo'
with the current owner, who showed us Roman ruins inside... telling
us that upcoming renovation that will preserve the integrity of
the Roman structure. Lunch: a piece of art in itself!"
Robin Strong, Tacoma, WA