Pino and I enjoyed another memorable visit to Siclly this summer, spending time in Palermo and reveling in the beauty of the island of Lampedusa for a week. Following a family tradition, I celebrated my late-August-birthday with all Pino’s family: we always gather all together for sfincioni, pizza and mignon di gelato from the nearby Bar Gardenia.
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“Don Matteo”, the Italian TV show about an insightful priest who often aids the local carabinieri in crime-solving, has switched locations: episodes are now being filmed in Spoleto, rather than in Gubbio (much to the chagrin of the Eugubini). Scaffolded for years during anti-seismic restoration following the 1997 earthquake, Spoleto’s Roman (the 1st c. AD theater), medieval (the Duomo, the aqueduct, the Papal fortress) and Renaissance (Fra Lippo Lippi’s frescoes) glories once more attract the tourists and – now – film crews.
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Even Italians photographing their friends urge them to say “Cheese”! (After all, with the word “cheese”, your mouth widens to a smile; saying “formaggio” forms a downward curve like a frown). One June Sunday in the Nera Valley, “formaggio” was on the lips of everyone (literally, figuratively): “Formaggio di pecora qui!” “Prova il nostro formaggio con tartufo, Signora?” “Che buono, questo formaggio!” “Signore, assaggi questa bruschetta al formaggio!”…
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Pine nuts are the leitmotif of this dinner, “architect Nicola affirmed as he served us his tasty first course: tagliolini (small tagliatelle) seasoned delicately with a tidbit of garlic, a fistful of wild fennel (“picked just a few hours ago”) and a handful of pine nuts. After a private visit to the Etruscan collection of tiny Petroio with Nicola (he’d designed the museum interior), we had followed him and engineer, Claudio, through the windy backstreets of this tiny southern Tuscany town to Nicola’s home, passing the towering chimney of the town kiln enroute. Known for its terra-cotta craftsmanship, terra-cotta works adorned the Petroio fountain, many a home – and Nicola’s garden.
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