Our Marches region motorcycle explorations took us down from San Giustoon a serpentining dirt road to the main highway leading to nearby Tolentino. Encircled by softly-rounded hills Tolentino’s medieval streets lead to quiet piazzas bordered by redbrick porticoes which give no sign of past violence: Papal troops had battled against feudal overlords and during World…
Hilltop pastures, live oak and chestnut woods, springtime-green fields of wheat lined the twisting roads our motorcycle followed into the region of Le Marche on that spring day a few years ago. Le Marche is the only one of the twenty regions of Italy with a plural name and although the name of this region…
You won’t have the basil variety highlighting il vero pesto genovese (“the true Genovese pesto”), but this pesto recipe of a Genovese friend is closest you’ll ever get to the vero pesto goodness. Felicita’ shared her recipe with me when I visited her in Camogli, on the coast just outside of Genova. A superb cook, she’s…