Near Assisi, a Christmastime Rural Feast with a Torrone Ending

Even the torrone – Christmas nougat – closing our mid-December Christmastime feast with a sweet note, was homemade. A Nello specialty.           Nello, hard-working farmer and torrone-confectioner        Nello’s torrone                       Pino favors Nello’s chocolate torrone At Mariella’s and Nello’s table,…

In Todi, Beverly Pepper’s Gentle Force

What an extraordinary marriage of the modern and the medieval in Todi on December 8th. The stately 13th-c civic palace of this Umbrian hilltown gem served as stunning backdrop for a show dedicated to the works of the American sculptor, Beverly Pepper.           Todi’s 13th-c civic palace – a majestic venue…

Near Assisi, an “Ohhh, Susanna!” Christmas

A coffee bar with a nondescript name (Bar Commercio), in a non-descript shopping center of a non-descript suburb of Perugia merits a Christmastime visit. A colorful panoply of Christmas crafts – the work of  Signora Susanna, bar c0-owner with husband Sergio – tops the stainless steel bar, fills the glass cases holding ice-creams in summertime…

In Assisi: Cheeses, Frescoes and Basilicas

This morning when I headed into the Caseificio Broccatelli to buy fresh ricotta, I mused that I might be living  an “only-in-Italy” moment. Perhaps a hackneyed phrase but  cheese shops aren’t usually right across the street from a majestic 16th-c Basilica. (Not to mention,  a Basilica built over the site where St. Francis died in…

Pasta ai Broccoli: a Pino Recipe

I had just made the broccoli for pasta ai broccoli  when Pino came home, peeked into the pot and asked, “perche’ non facciamo nel modo del cavolfiore?”  (“why not make it the cauliflower way?”) I knew what he meant: time to add a handful of pine nuts and the tiny sultana grapes of Sicily (uva sultana), as…