Anne's Blog

Scopello’s Pane Cunzatu

Date: November 26, 2013 - categories: - Leave your thoughts

Tonnara di Scopello

Scopello (credits)

When our children were small,  we headed to Palermo and Pino’s family every August  – no visit complete without an all-family outing to Scopello.   Our children and their palermitano cousins would scramble to the peaks of the rocky outcrops (“i faraglioni”) rising out of the  aquamarine sea and gleefully leap off, arms spread and windmill-spinning, screaming wildly.   Nearby and facing the sea , was the Scopello tonnara where tuna (“tonno”) was once unloaded from fishing boats and then processed.  The tonnara is now a protected historic landmark and there’s no longer public access to our coveted swimming spot but our Palermo sojourns (no small children now!) continue to  include a stop in the village of Scopello on the mountain above, overlooking the sea.  A family tradition:  our sea-satiated, extended family always headed up there for a stroll and snack as nighttime moved in.

As twilight moves in, vacationers head to Scopello

As twilight draw in, vacationers arrive at Scopello

Scopello was once a baglio,  a  fortified walled rural structure, typical of the Sicilian feudal epoch, generally built high on a mountain in a lookout position. Threshing – and other tasks of the rural year –  took place in the limestone-paved inner courtyard which was encircled by two-story buildings.  Landlords lived on the upper levels and the peasants on the ground floor with carriages, farm carts, wine cellars, olive oil cellars and courtyard farm animals sharing adjacent spaces.   An arched passageway – for the passage of carts, carriages, farm animals and farm equipment during the day – could be closed up at night.

Carettino siciliano near Scopello

Carettino siciliano near Scopello

Nowadays, clutches of sun-tanned vacationers walk arm-in-arm through the arched entrance into the former rural courtyard of the baglio, browsing the shops taking the place of the farm cellars and perhaps stopping for a prosecco  or gelato at one of the cafes’ now there.

Outside the baglio a painted horse-drawn Sicilian cart awaits children eager for a ride.  Some visitors fill up water bottles at the huge fountain, once the place where farm women washed clothes. Others – like us – head to the right, down a pathway, to the outdoor bread oven for pane cunzatu.

Filling a sfincione and pane cunzatu order

Filling a sfincione and pane cunzatu order

If it’s after dark, the line may be out the door and places at the metal tables under the spreading fig trees  in front of the forno a legna might be few.  Our wait was reasonable – and worth it, as always. Pane cunzatu (in Sicilian dialect, “seasoned bread”) has been offered by the Anselmo family for well over thirty years now.    From simply baking loaves of durham wheat bread for villagers, the Anselmis moved on to offering “seasoned” bread to  hungry vacationers, heading up to the “baglio village”‘ from the sea.  The freshly-baked warm loaf of about 800 grams (and only their bread will do) is split in four sections, each part sprinkled with salt, pepper  Sicilian mountain wild oregano (only!), then drizzled with olive oil (the olive oil the family produces from their trees). Sliced very ripe red tomatoes (raised in the intense Sicilian sun) are laid on the bread slices, then topped with slices of Sicilian primosale cheese. Slices of anchovies under oil top the cheese, then the bread slices are put on, pushed firmly with the  palms of the hands so that all the flavors blend.

Panelle, sfincione and sweets also sold at the bakery

Panelle, sfincione and sweets also sold at the bakery

Pane cunzatu is served hot, wrapped in slices of brown butcher paper.    Cold beer on the side – or the white Sicilian wine, Insolia? Your call.

Sfincione (Palermo rich pizza), panelle (Palermo chickpea goodness) and pastries line up on the bakery shelf, too. But plastic plates mounded with pane cunsatu  tower over everything.  The family now has a small bar across from the bakery – the only change.  A nephew runs it and make the best granita di limone I’ve ever had:  “I squeezed lemons for 4 hours today”, he told me.

No hungry children with us this year on our Sicily trip. They’ve all grown.  But whenever they head to Palermo for a visit, like us, they head to Scopello – for pane cunsatu.

Read about another Sicilian treat with Arab roots
Read more on Palermo street food
Read about another Palermo favorite snack
Read more on our Sicily adventures (and a recipe)
Read about a favorite Sicilian small island, Ustica
Read more on Ustica – and on an Ustica treasure
Read about – and see – the wondrous Sicilian island of Lampedusa
Read about why many are heading to Lampedusa

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *


Privacy Policy

Privacy Italian Legislative Decree n° 196/2003 Under Article 13 of the Italian Legislative Decree no. 196/2003, regulations with regard to the Protection of Personal Data, this is an informative report to all interested parties on the modality of the treatment of personal data, arising from interaction with our website
THE PRINCIPAL FOR DATA TREATMENT During site consultation, personal data referring to identified or identifiable persons can be processed. The principal for data treatment is Anne Robichaud Pian della Pieve Assisi 06081 (PG) Italy. The data will be mainly processed at the mentioned head office by the people responsible for the website or by other people appointed for occasional maintenance operations, provided that their actions conform to of the guarantees enshrined in the Legislative Decree 196/2003.
Web navigation The information systems and software procedures required for the functioning of this website, acquire some personal data during their normal service, the transmission of which is implicit in the use of web communication protocols. This information is not collected with the purpose of identifying interested parties, but due to its very nature, the information could lead to user identification through processes and relations with data held by third parties. In this data category there are IP addresses or domain names belonging to computers used by users who connect to the site, addresses with URI (Uniform Resource Identifier) notification of the requested resources, time of the request, used method in submitting the request to the server, dimension of the file obtained in replying, the numeric code mentioning the reply status given by the server (successful reply, error, etc?) and other parameters referred to the operation system and to the user’s information environment. This data is used with the sole purpose of obtaining anonymous statistical information on the use of the site and to check the correct functioning; immediately after processing, the data is erased.
Data voluntarily supplied by the user The voluntary optional and explicit e-mail transmission to the addresses mentioned in this site implies the subsequent acquisition of the sender’s address, necessary to reply to the queries, as well as the other eventual personal data registered in the message.
OPTIONAL PERSONAL DATA SUPPLY Except for the above mentioned navigation data, the user may be asked to supply his own personal data through queries or messages to the email addresses shown in the contact pages. Failure to provide such data may be the cause of the inability to obtain the requested information from the company.
TREATMENT MODALITY The personal data is treated in compliance with the Legislative Decree no. 196/2003 and held only for the time necessary to achieve the aim for which it has been collected. Specific safety measures are taken to prevent any data loss, illicit or incorrect use and unauthorized access.
RIGHTS OF THIRD PARTIES The data subjects are at any time entitled to obtain confirmation as to whether or not data relating to him are held, to know the contents and the origin, to check the correctness, to ask for integration, updating or change (art. 7 Decree Law 196:June 2003). In accordance with the same article, they are entitled to obtain the erasure, conversion into anonymous form or freezing of all data used in breach of the law, to object, on legitimate grounds, to the processing of data relating to him. All requests have to be transmitted to the e-mail address

Agenzia Viaggi Stoppini in Assisi handles all technical support for my guided visits (bus transportation, organization of meals, etc)