On a recent visit to friends near Pisa, Pino and I decided to head off the usual autostrada route for our return trip to Assisi. We had a full-day ahead of us so we headed south into the Tuscan countryside towards Volterra for our return trip, passing splendid Tuscan hill towns…..
.
….surveying vineyards and olive groves.
Remnants of rural architecture of the past were enticing sculptures in the landscape. We pulled off the road now and then for photos. The brick hay sheds of the past enticed. Called “frangivento” (“break the wind”) their open brick work allowed for passage of air so that the hay inside would not rot and yet prohibited rain deluges from devastating the farmers’ precious hay:
Here and there, we’d spot a beautifully-restored frangivento:
Our friends, Enrico and Marta suggested a stop in Peccioli, small hilltown (approximate population: 5000) gem where a favorite eating spot draws them now and then.
We headed to the main square, the pastels on many buildings flanking narrow winding medieval backstreets, turning this into a colorful stroll:
Bright colors animated, too, the narrow winding sidestreets we explored:
WA
Modern art joined the ancient in the curving, vaulted Peccioli backstreets:
(N.B. The curvy sidestreets are characteristic of the protective architecture of medieval towns all over Italy).
As we headed to our ristorante, we entered Peccioli’s main square, Piazza del Popolo where San Vernano, a medieval church (restored in the 19th-century after a devastating fire, mid-17th century) is flanked by a soaring bell tower.
A few steps away, we found the entrance to Enoteca Ristorante Pasticceria Ferretti: our destination, this wine-shop restaurant, pastry shop.
Just inside, a smiling Lorella, was serving customers at the pastry counter of her family’s business:
We passed those temptations and heading into the adjacent dining area where a group of diners were feasting, wood beams spread out overhead. We were seated nearby them and soon ordered our feast.
Pino started out with giardino in inverno (“garden in winter”), a tasty medley of red turnip greens and porcini mushrooms…..
…while I reveled in my dish of lasagnette alle verdure (“small lasagna cuts with vegetables”):
Buonissimo!
Pino followed up with a dish called “fritto non fritto di mare” (“fried and not fried from the sea”) where local batter-fried winter vegetables joined batter-fried seafood (squid, small shrimp):
I chose the winter vegetables: carrots, fennel, cauliflower and zucchini united in savory goodness:
Son of owners, Tommaso droppdd by to ask if we were enjoying our lunch:
Diners all around were
“Squisito, grazie, Tommaso!”
,All around other diners were enjoying their feasts….or deciding on the tempting menu selections:
One couple was seated near a whimsical espresso-cup artwork:
A smiling Tommaso was serving up desserts from the counter as we left,….
…nearby, dessert temptations on display:
Satiated, Pino and I paid our bill and thanked all with a “mille grazie.”
One task to handle before leaving Peccioli: Pino’s friend, Enrico, had urged us not to miss the view right behind the restaurant.
We headed out…and into the alleyway leading around to the back:
Splendor awaited:
Modern art blended into the mozzafiato (“breath-taking”) Peccioli landscape:
We’ll be back.
See my YouTube video of our Peccioli stop.
