In the Marches Region, a Mountain Agriturismo Near Lake Fiastra

I was contemplating the views spreading out all around us….

…..sitting in front of our agriturismo (farmhouse B&B) in the Sibiillini mountains in the Marches region.

Appropriately called “Alti Pascoli,” (“High Pastures”), the agriturismo is perched at 830 meters, overlooking gently rolling wooded slopes.

Our simple but charming room was at the top of the metal stairs flanking the farmhouse.

Our room – on the second floor – was just above the simple kitchen where guests savor Signora Ida’s buonissimo rural cuisine – kilometro zero (“farm-to-table” assured!) cooked up with passione for the guests she and husband Massimo welcome.

Signora Ida came over to the table where I was reading with something to show me: she knew that Pino and I raised about twenty goats and had a question for me. She and Massimo (with the help of two sons) raise over 90 sheep and just a couple goats in their midst.

As she placed a gallon-or-so plastic bucket on the table, she asked me with a twinkle in her eye, “Latte da quante capre, Anna?”

I had no idea how many goats and had produced that milk and guessed: “Tre o quattro? Due?”

Beaming, she folded her arms with satisfaction and told me: “Solo una.”

Just one goat at one milking had yielded those four litres of milk.

Mamma mia!

I guessed the breed which Signora Ida affirmed: Saanen.

I was eager to tell Pino (up in our room, unpacking).

And when I later mentioned that goat’s astounding milk quantity to Signor Massimo, he grinned and curving his arms to form a sphere, told me, “Her udder is this big!”

We’d arrived at Agriturismo Alti Pascoli in late afternoon after a long day, traveling the Adriatic coastal roads. I asked Signora Ida if by any chance that night she would be cooking dinner – or if we should head to a nearby trattoria or ristorante.

She hadn’t planned on cooking that night – as there were only two of us after the departure that day of a group. I asked for her recommendations on where to eat and then Signora Ida said that if we didn’t mind “something simple,” she’d take care of us.

She showed me the dining room with wooden beams, once a stall:

She pointed out a table for the two of us under the stone arch.

Photos of her parents working the land and an uncle on a donkey were on the wall to the left of the arch:

A photo of relatives haying and herding sheep in times past was there, too:

We were certainly delighted to eat dinner cooked by Signora Ida, even if “qualcosa molto semplice.”

For an antipasto, Pino requested a taste of the pecorino cheese Massimo and sons make of their sheep’s milk:

I opted for Signora Ida’s buonissimi marinated zucchini, simple and delicious:

After our antipasti, gnocchi with an “invented” but delicate sauce of herbs and garden zucchini for Pino …

…and for me, homemade tagliatelle with a sauce of their tomatoes and capriolo (roe deer), hunted by their son….

….and their vino rosso was the perfect accompaniment.

Only one other table was occupied: by Signora Ida and Signor Massimo who planned their rural tasks for the next day as they ate.

After dinner, I asked Signor Massimo if we might see his sheep perhaps the next morning. “Volentieri” (“Willingly”), he replied. Signora Ida would bring us over to the nearby stall after our breakfast….

….which would include her tasty tart made with chocolate and sheep’s milk ricotta:

The next morning, more splendid views across the road from the sheep stall fanned out below…..

..and Signor Massimo was standing just inside the huge stall awaiting us:

….and inside, more than 90 sheep – and two goats – munched hay in tranquil harmony, the only noise a gently-muted “munch munch”:

Pino spotted the Saanen goat, abundant milk-giver:

..and Signor Massimo introduced us to one of his favorite sheep:..

Near mammoth bales of hay, Signor Massimo and Pino chatted about the ideal forage for sheep and goats:

Grains too should join the hay in a well-balanced diet for ruminants.

Pino was fascinated to see the machine Massimo and his sons use to grind oats, barley, wheat, sorghum and corn. He took quite a few photos of the equipment…