There are treasures around every corner in Italy. In every village, no matter how small. You’ll find them just off the piazza, hidden away in medieval backstreets, and behind huge wooden doors. Like those of the checkerboard facade of the SS. Pietro e Andrea church of Trequanda, not far from Pienza in Tuscany.
[lcaption]Sogni d’oro[/lcaption]
Pino and I had often been in Trequanda as his crew was doing restoration work nearby on medieval urban walls – but only last winter did I finally explore this fascinating church. We had coffee in the one cafe’ on the one main piazza where one client dozed in a metal chair- and then I headed to the church while Pino met with the local architect.
Built in the 14th-century on the site of a pre-existing church (in its turn, most likely on the site of a Roman temple – after all, what church isn’t in Italy??), this travertine and tufo rock Renaissance marvel holds a trove of treasures, stolen ones.
One glows in the dim light above the altar: a breath-taking Sienese gilded triptych stolen about 40 years ago but now home – and nearby is the Cleveland cross, a 14th-century enameled cross masterpiece, another stolen object which ended up in the Cleveland Museum of Art after its theft in the mid-19th-century. The cross returned home just over thirty years ago.
[lcaption]Daniela in awe of the Cleveland cross[/lcaption]
If the volunteer custodian, Daniela, is there, she’ll proudly show you more Trequanda treasures, including the body of Blessed Bonizella, 13th-century saint with a curious link to honey and beeswax.
…and before leaving Trequanda, drop in at the bakery, il Vecchio Forno, down a side street near the church. Young baker Riccardo might be putting powdered sugar on the ricciarelli (almond cookies) or taking ciaccia – a Tuscan focaccia – out of the oven. He and his brother Alessandro took over the bakery from Roberto, Protégé of Rodrigo, renowned baker of the town. According to local tradition, Rodrigo used the lievito madre (“mother of the yeast”, i.e., starter) of his parents, Ligure and Maria, who started baking in 1945. That same starter lives on in Riccardo and Alessandro’s breads….and ciaccia. Che buono!
[lcaption]Riccardo serves up his ciaccia[/lcaption]
Yes, you’ll find some of Trequanda’s treasures in a backstreet.
Read about another gem, near Trequanda
Read about nearby Montisi
Read more about Trequanda treasures here
Read about Tuscan gem, Anghiari and its artisan market
