Savoring the Goodness at Castiglione del Lago

Just outside of the massive medieval walls of Castiglione del Lago, walk up the “little steps (“le scalette”) to a wooden terrace shaded by a wide cream-colored awning. “Osteria Le Scalette” in brown letters runs along the awning’s borders.

Mediterranean pines stretch out over Castiglione del Lago

Osteria Le Scalette is just outside the massive medieval walls of Castiglione del Lago

You’ve arrived – and if you’re lucky, you might find a seat at one of the eight tables (inside) – or those outside which overlook Lake Trasimeno below. While Pino’s crew worked here on the medieval walls of Castiglone del Lago, we came here often for lunch – and now get back every chance we can. Pino’s crew is now working on restoration of the airfield outside of Castiglione – so once again, we have an excuse for a meal here at Osteria Le Scalette, now and then.

We were here today and ordered a favorite dish for the primo piatto (“first course”), spaghetti al sugo di lago, a specialty of the cook, owner Roberto’s mother, Anna. The spaghetti (perfectly al dente) are glorified with a delicate sauce of Lake Trasimeno perch and carp, carp’s eggs, tomatoes, and capers. Prosciutto and melone is usually an antipasto but on this hot day, I ordered it as a secondo, while Pino opted for the Lake Trasimeno perch stew.

We had no room for the crema catalana prepared by Agnese, Roberto’s wife, nor the wild berries tart of Anna.

Roberto serves up pasta al pesce di lago

Roberto serves up the pasta with fish sauce of Mamma Anna

Anna prepares roast potatoes

And if you’re not a fish-lover, the Osteria is still not to be missed, for the Osteria specializes in dishes of game, too. Try the tagliatelle al cinghiale (a fettuccine dish with wild boar) or a pasta dish with Appenine deer – or gnocchi with duck sauce. Deer stew with porcine mushrooms and will boar stew with white truffles and balsamic vinegar are other Osteria highlights. The word is out: Roberto showed me an article from a Connecticut magazine about the Osteria – and another one written by a Russian journalist.

Opening the restaurant six years ago was the idea of Roberto who had worked in the restaurant business in Germany, France and England but was ready to “come home.” He convinced his mamma Anna – aged 71! – to join him as cook at L’Osteria Le Scalette. “She’s actually got her pension,” Roberto told me with a smile, “ but she’s not ready to stay at home.” And Anna adds with a smile, “I’ve been ‘retired’ for over ten years …but I love feeling useful.”

Anna, believe me, you are far more than useful: who can imagine a visit to Castiglione del Lago without a taste of the goodness you cook up.