Magical IIlumination in Assisi at Christmas

Magnificent illumination highlights Assisi’s medieval monuments during the Christmas season.

Quotes of San Francesco – beloved patron saint of all of Italy – are incorporated in the illumination of the splendid 13th-c. Basilica di San Francesco where the Saint is buried. The Basilica overlooks the valley below, la Valle Umbra Nord (the North Umbria Valley):

As St. Francis was baptized in the Cathedral of San Rufino (as was St. Clare) at the end of the 12th-c., the image of his baptism reigns in the lighting on the cathedral facade, over the central rose window, with a waterfall seeming to flow out of that rosone:

The illumination of the 13-c. Basilica di Santa Chiara (where St.Clare is buried) depicts Santa Chiara and San Francesco in prayer kneeling below the rose window which seems to be a brilliant sunburst:

In front of the Basilica di Santa Chiara, booths of Assisi’s mercatino di Natale (“Christmas market”) offer artisan Christmastime treasures to visitors:

The 14th-c. fortress, La Rocca Maggiore, towers above Assisi and the market.

Near the Basilica di Santa Chiara, illuminated phrases drape over the street. The words are those of the Canticle of the Creatures of San Francesco, the first poem in the Italian vulgate (for previously, all poetry had been in Latin) in which he praises the Lord for all of creation.

Alongside the Basilica di Santa Chiara, the illuminated words praise Brother Fire with the words of St. Francis:

Laudato si’, mi’ Signore, per frate focu, per lu quale enallumeni la nocte -ed ellu è bello e iocundo e robustoso et forte.

(“Praise to you, my Lord, for Brother Fire,
Through whom you brighten up the night.
How beautiful is he, how merry! Full of power and strength”)

And farther up the street, heading towards the main square of Assisi, Sister Moon and the stars are praised:

Laudate si’, mio Signore, per sorella luna e le stelle; in celu, le hai formate clarite et pretiose e belle.

(“Praise be to You, my Lord, for Sister Moon and the stars,. In the heavens you have made them bright, precious and fair.”)

The medieval belltower in bright blue light rises proudly in the main square, backdropping the lines of the Canticle.

Entering the main square, Piazza del Comune, chains of white lights drape out over a red and gold 3-dimensional “Assisi” sign, medieval city hall rising to the left. Across the square, the Roman temple to Minerva (1st B.C.) is flanked by the belltower.

At the opposite end of the square, a Christmas tree rises, children with hands linked dancing around that tree:

Brother Wind – lauded by San Francesco in his Cantico delle Creature – is depicted in illumination on the 11th-c Benedictine church, San Pietro across town:

For me, this was the most artistic depiction this year for leaves swirled in the wind – actually gently moved in a circular motion – on the building attached to the church on the right. Bellissimo, too, was the tree battered by the wind, its branches reaching out to the rose windows. And San Francesco just standing calmly, hands folded, observing the scene.

The illuminated words of the Cantico praising Frate Vento stretched out over the street to the left of the church:

Laudato si’, mi’ Signore, per frate vento et per aere et nubilo et sereno et onne tempo, per lo quale a le tue creature dài sustentamento

“Praised be You, my Lord, through Brother Wind, and through the air, cloudy and serene,
and every kind of weather through which you give sustenance to Your creatures.”

Near San Pietro, the medieval city entryway is illuminated – as if to frame the Brother Wind scene for you: you can see the words of the Cantico just inside the medieval gate:

In this note, I’ve shared just a touch of medieval Assisi’s Christmas splendor – but wandering the twisting alleyways, you’ll encounter many touches of simple seasonal adornment: