From Monterey to Marettimo

You don’t have to speak marettimano or siciliano – or even Italiano – to order up the goodness at Bar La Scaletta overlooking the island of Marettimo’s port and craggy mountains rising out of the sea. English will do, for dark-haired, green-eyed Concetta shoving down the black handles of the bar’s shiny expresso machine started out life in Monterey, California, daughter of an island of Marettimo fisherman who’d emigrated to the U.S. where he fished colder waters, those of Alaska. He met his wife – an immigrant from Trapani – in California.

Concetta from Monterey – with young helper, Giovanni

Seven years ago – after many summers here on Marettimo – Concetta married a marettimano; she’s now living here all year round, one of the barely hundred permanent island residents. Massimo, pastry chef for the bar, is “an adopted marettimano,” working the four-month season here, then (usually) heading home in the fall to Trapani. “But last year,” he told me, “I stayed all year and lived the life of an isolano.” When I asked about the experience, he summed it up with one word: “Spettacolare!”

Glad Massimo loves Marettimo, so that he’ll continue making the pastries, gelati and granite here. Have a look at what he turns out:

Massimo’s artistry:

Massimo oversees the sweet sector but Bar La Scaletta owner Giovanni’s family – wife, Nina and daughter, Veronica – cook up all the tasty savories (Signora Nina), pastas and side dishes (Veronica) which are set out for a luncheon buffet I asked Veronica who taught her to cook: “Papà – and I was in the kitchen with him by the time I was twelve”.

Giovanni, Bar Le Scalette owner, greets a customer/old friend

Giovanni, Bar La Scaletta owner, greets a customer/old friend

Giovanni, tired after a long day

Veronica sets out her eggplant parmesan – and other wonders

Veronica and mamma Nina set out the buffet lunch

Nina and the lunch buffet

Nina serves a young customer

Take a look at the temptations mother and daughter cook up:

La caponata

Green beans, potatoes with parsley, garlic

Eggplant parmesan

Grilled breaded eggplants

Seafood salad

Gateau (a Sicilian egg flan)

Tastes of the vegetable goodness

Pasta alle sarde, a Sicilian specialty

Nina’s snack, all Sicilian specialties:

Imagine savoring those flavors while gazing at this view:

…and most days, seated between the snacks and the bar terrace, gazing out to sea, you’ll find Giovanni’s father, elderly Nonno Pietro, weathered face, wearing his straw hat, a fisherman for years.
As he gazes seaward, I wonder if he’s remembering those fatiguing years of before-dawn departures for open waters, late returns, hours of untangling the nets and de-boning fish?

Nonno Pietro gazing seaward

Wander the island of Marettimo alleyways – all opening to the sea – and you’ll see clutches of elderly fisherman here and there reminiscing on their fishing years, talking about the island visitors today. Not easy to live from fishing today – and many of the islanders today are not out on the waters in boats but near the water, cooking up island goodness for summer guests at seaside bars and trattorie.

…like Bar La Scaletta, steps away from the port.