One of the “undiscovered” medieval hill town gems of Umbria is certainly Gubbio. Not on any railroad line, the winding medieval backstreets of Gubbio are thronged once a year: on May 15th, for the Festa dei Ceri.
But all was quiet in Gubbio late May as my tour guests, Beth and Tim, and I headed through the town’s medieval backstreets, never encountering a tour group….
Colorful banners fluttered from windows, put out on May 15th for la Festa dei Ceri, honoring patron saint, St. Ubaldo, 12th-century bishop of Gubbio.
A mad race up the mountain backdropping Gubbio honors St.Ubaldo – on his statue topping his Cero, Santo Ubaldo wears a yellow cape. Santo Giorgio follows in the race, dressed in royal blue. Sant’Antonio tops his Cero wearing red: hence the colors of the banners. (More on the Festa dei Ceri to follow…)
The majestic 14th-c city hall, Palazzo dei Consoli, towers over Gubbio:
Gubbio is perched on the slopes of Mt. Ingino and the bell tower of the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo peeks out over the woods backdropping Palazzo dei Consoli. The Basilica is the destination of the mad May 15th Race of the Ceri.
Logicamente, Beth, Tim and I headed up there on the funicolare, for the Ceri are there now and one cannot leave Gubbio without touching those Ceri.
Gubbio majesty spread out below as we headed up….
…..and I photographed Beth and Tim, just below me as we sailed upwards:
I also managed to snap their photo as they were helped off on arrival at the top of Mt.Ingino:
We headed towards the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo..
…and then up the steps into the Basilica..
Built in the 16th-century (on site of a pre-existing smaller church) to house the body of Sant’Ubaldo, beloved bishop, the Saint lies in repose in a glass sarcophagus above the main altar:
The beloved Ceri stand in a side aisle nearby:
Following local tradition, we touched the three Ceri before heading back to the funicolare to return to the town.
Walks through stunning nearly-empty backstreets ….
…as well as our visits to the Mausoleum of the Forty Martyrs and the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo were significant Gubbio tour moments .
Learning about the “death doors” (so prevalent in Gubbio), too:
BUT….
perhaps our visit to the talented ceramic artisan, Sabrina Matteucci-Baffoni, was a tour highlight for Beth:
Beth and Tim will remember their Gubbio day whenever they look at their Sabrina maiolica sunflower art work – now in their home:
Do see my talk on Gubbio
Read more here about Sabrina
Read here about the Festa dei Ceri – and more!
Spectacular! Worth a visit for sure.