
Treasured white truffles
In early November, white truffles star at the 32nd edition of la Mostra-Mercato del Tartufo Bianco in Citta’ di Castello in the Upper Tiber Valley. But not only the prized white truffle, Tuber Magnatum Pico: all the many flavors of Umbrian fall goodness team with traditional culinary wisdom in this weekend dedicated to educating the taste buds and the mind through a kaleidoscope of conferences, cooking competitions, theatrical presentations and food tastings.
The enthusiasm of visitors was not dampened at all on the misty gray opening day. Under huge white tents in the main piazza, a friend and I joined the locals in tastings of white and black truffle patés, the newly-milled olive oils with fresh ground truffle, roasted chestnuts with a glass of robust yet sweet cannaiola wine, and the new olive oils on bruschetta.

City hall backdrops the food tents
Nadia Marconi, a local teacher, echoed his words with passione as we lunched together with her and friends in the festival food couryard. Over fettuccine al tartufo bianco and the famous Chianina veal of the Tiber Valley, Nadia admonished, “Frozen foods, no! Why unwrap, heat and serve a food? Food is a language, a way of communicating and enthusiasm must be added to its preparation and the serving to friends. You have to put your soul into food. Let us communicate over food. Aromas, flavors, colors all transmit messages – such a perfect form of communication! Let us educate our youth, our children to the flavors of food as communication.”

Augusto Tocci serves his specialty
Next to Nadia, Augusto Tocci – in his signature yellow sportcoat – nodded. Director of the Istituto Sperimentale per la Selvicoltura (centered on the conservation of woodland environments), Tocci is a well-known RAI TV personality, noted for his programs on the ties between culinary traditions and local environments and rural culture. We had popped into one of the main tents on the square that morning, named “Casa Tocci” where he and Nadia were chatting with the local woman on culinary lore and preparing together a simple Tocci recipe, eggplant pate’ (see below).

Young chefs learn culinary carvings

Mushrooms on display
White truffle may be the star but the Mostra/Mercato del Tartufo Bianco celebrates – above all – Umbria’s richly diverse heritage in this November week-end dedicated to gastronomy, rural culture and traditions – and healthy eating.
RECIPE
Tocci Eggplant Paté
Wrap 2 medium-sized eggplants in foil and bake in oven til soft when pricked with a fork.
Peel.
Put pulp into blender.
Add anchovies, black olives, capers, olive oil, Q.B. .
Note: “Quanto basta” means “as much as you need”. Augusto Tocci – like any great rural cooks – does not create with recipes. Like him, experiment with ingredients and flavors. Nadia would say, “Communicate with the food!”
Spread pate’ on a good, crusty bread. Buon appetito!
Read about how I bring Nadia’s cooking philosophy to US schools
Read about other November events in Umbria
Read more on truffles
Read about another mostra/mercato featuring truffles
Read about a sagra near Perugia starring peperoncino
Oh Anne! What fun we had that day and the day after, too (and on many other occasions). You (and Silvana) are the dearest, most important persons in my Umbrian experience. There must be a G-d, because he/she/it sent me to you.
All my love and profound gratitude,
A presto in NYC,
Joan
Wondrous day ..time to go back. Are you ready!??