Returning to a L’Aquila Favorite

It’s not the first time we’ve savored the abruzzese goodness at the family-run Agristoro San Gregorio, just outside L’Aquila. And it won’t be the last time. A couple years ago, we stayed here in the rooms upstairs, after dinner in their warm and welcoming restaurant. We were in L’Aquila for Pino’s bid presentation for an earthquake restoration project – and since his team has since won that bid (beating out over 200 other construction teams), our trips to L’Aquila are more frequent. And a warm sense of familiarity slips in when entering the spacious Agriristoro San Gregorio dining room now.

What a place to eat in Abruzzo!

Agriristoro San Gregorio, near L’Aquila

On a past visit, we’d had a long talk with host Ivo – he and his wife had opened the restaurant/inn in another location in 1996 – about the mental damage caused by the April 2009 Abruzzo earthquake, equal in its enormity to the physical damage. Ivo wasn’t greeting guests today but son Massimo was. In between making espressi for customers, Massimo and I talked more about the psychological effects of the devastating earthquake, especially among the elderly who have given up on the idea of ever re-entering their homes.

Massimo serves up espresso – with a shot of grappa! – for two workers

I asked him how the earthquake had affected their restaurant/B&B business. “It’s drastically upset our way of working,” he explained ruefully, “as we’re now working with outsiders, not much with the aqullani. Not many are treating themselves to a dinner out – after all, what is there to celebrate?” When I asked him about the banquets for the traditional Italian “rites of passage” – Baptism, First Communion, Confirmation – he smiled saying, “Yes, nobody negates those moments: our dining room is quite booked from April throughout June.”

And the other months? They now work with earthquake re-construction teams, engineers, restorers, technicians of all sorts…..”and a few tourists.” A couple locals were at one table today, two construction workers at another, a pair of administrative officials of the Cultural Heritage Ministry of Italy (here to follow up on the restoration of wounded national monuments) – and Pino, two of his workers and I in the corner table.

Starting off the feast with the house antipasto – tastes of abruzzese goodness

“Care to try this pasta with wild boar?”

Nicola approves of the lamb chops!

Quiet murmurs at all table as everyone set to feasting on abruzzese specialties: choices ranged from fettuccine with wild boar, to spaghetti alla chitarra con porcini to homemade fettucine with porcini mushrooms and saffron (the choice of Nicola and Mariano, sharing lunch with us). For Pino? a hearty Abruzzo soup of lentils with tiny squares of homemade quadrucci pasta. And how could I resist the gnocchi with winter squash and local sausage? Pino, Nicola and Mariano went on to second courses (after all, why miss out the grilled lamb when in Abruzzo?)