A Florence Find: …and…Mi Piace!

Almost always, any Italian “foodie” experience is also a “people” experience. The two are quite simply, inseparable. Take that “quick stop” at the Caffe’ Mi Piace in Florence, for example. It turned into a most-of-the-day visit.
On a recent rainy November day, Australian friend, Jenny (a Florentine residente as often as possible) and I stopped in for morning espresso the day before her re-entry to Sydney. When she’s in Florence, this little cafe’ in the backstreets of the Oltrearno area – the “lived-in” popolano district of artisans and working class people, across the Arno River (and hence, the name) from the centro storico – is her favorite spot for morning coffee or a quick lunch.

And not just because it’s just around the corner from Jen’s rental apartment: but also because anyone who goes in, immediately likes the “I Like It” (“Mi Piace”) cafe’ and warm and welcoming owners, Sicilian Roberto (who’d come on his own from Canicatti at 16) and his smiling tiny Florentine wife, Monica. What is there not to like? Morning pastries tempt – and not just cornetti (croissants), but the homemade budini (literally, “puddings” – a creamy rice-filled pastry) and cakes Monica makes. If you prefer to start the day with a savory, her spinach-ricotta pie will win you over….or perhaps the Sicilian arancine (rice balls filled with ground meat, peas, or mozzarella).
Another choice? la schiacciata (a type of Florentine flatbread).

And the coffee? Buonissimo! Roberto well knows that the taste of the espresso is in direct proportion, not just to the quality of the bar’s coffee, but also to the careful maintenance of the espresso machine. Roberto cares for that machine with all the tenderness and attention he showers on their daughter, Alice (4). Well, almost. Watch him caress that machine as he polishes it and cleans our the various parts. “It’s like changing the diapers, caring for the most intimate parts of your baby.” Concluding his analogy, he added, “…and in this case, a red bottom would mean no money coming in!”

As he was polishing the machine, white-haired Signora Bruna stopped in for her daily cappuccino and croissant (“he knows I like the plain one without filling”, she told me.) And she was given more than that: Roberto gave her a tweak to the cheek, a hug across the counter and compliments on her new hairdo before she left.

Around noon, the lunch crowd forges in but elderly retired people eat earlier. Around 11 a.m (I’d decided to stay and work on my computer here, just to the observe human dynamics), Signora Anna came in to pick up the “lunch-to-go” which Roberto prepares for her every day (he and Monica do about twenty lunches for the elderly). “I choose what to make for her – and she’s always happy”, Roberto told me with a wide grin. That day? Pasta with homemade meat sauce, breaded veal cutlet with grilled radicchio on the side. A slice of good, crusty bread was slipped into the bag, too.

After a pre-lunch walk over to the nearby Pitti Palace, Jen and I and were lucky enough to return to the last two portions of the pasta that day, penne con piselli, a tomato/peas sauce made by Monica. The tiny cafe’ was full, tables filled with some munching prosciutto/mozzarella sandwiches, others enjoying the pasta, some savoring the salmon and a young couple near us, Claudia and Tommaso, chose grilled turkey slices and a vegetable medley.

We thought we’d have no room for dessert but Roberto wanted to give us complimentary slices of a tempting-looking cake Monica had made that day. At least they allowed us to accept just one slice: we shared.
Maybe next time we’ll have room for more, Roberto and Monica!

Read more on how the Italian cafe’ ls the center of town life.