Living the Story of Labro

Founder of the concept of the albergo diffuso (“scattered hotel” might be the best translation?), Giancarlo dall’Ara summed it up this way:
“I think of an albergo diffuso as a novel that tells the story of a culture. Guests are brought into the story temporarily so they can better understand the way of life.” We entered into the culture, the history, the life today of tiny medieval mountain village, Labro, during our stay in the albergo diffuso, Palazzo San Crispolto, thanks to the Belgian owners/architects, Ivan Van Mossevelde and his wife, Anne van Ruymbeke who transformed crumbling ruins of the abandoned medieval hilltop village into welcoming lodgings for visitors.

Anne now runs their albergo diffuse, Palazzo Crispolti – two suites, two apartments and three double rooms – in two village building, salvaged and meticulously restored according to albergo diffuso guidelines: maximum respect for the environment, preservation of the characteristics of the past structure through salvaging existing buildings, and re-animating the social fabric through involvement of the locals. The albergo diffuso philosophy centers on saving the borghi (“small hamlets”) from widespread abandonment as young people opt increasingly for urban lifestyles.

We arrived in Labro in the dark on a late afternoon in December, entering under the medieval arched entrance to the town and following cobblestone alleyways to a massive wooden door. We called the telephone number posted on the door and Anne’s Belgian assistant, Gaelle, living in the village, came to settle us in our room. She accompanied us to Ristorante da Ulisse just outside the walls of the village, where Ulisse cooks up the goodness in what was once the local school. And here he also runs the only village cafe/bar, too – and a small grocery store.

Gaelle joined us for vino rosso and cheeses, salami before heading home. (She’d be up early to prepare our breakfast the next day.) Ulisse had a heater on in the dining room just for us: we were the only restaurant customers Ulisse offered us bruschetta with just pressed local olive oil and beef for Pino, grilled lamb for me – and cabbage and spicy tomato sauce followed. Two grizzled elderly men sipped wine in the small room between restaurant and coffee bar- but they were gone before we left…

Labro’s medieval imprint was visible even in the pitch black as we followed the winding alleyways back to our lodgings:

And the next morning, the view from our room underscored the splendor of this albergo diffuso’s location: a majestic sweep of burnished hills rolled right down to the shores of the Piediluco lake.

Knowing Pino was a builder and keenly interested in architectural restoration and preservation, Anne and her husband Ivan (age 75 and still fully occupied with his architectural projects), joined us for the breakfast Gaelle had prepared – in the beautifully-restored medieval kitchen. Before Ivan arrived, Anne shared with us the stories of their arrival in Labro and the arduous restoration years. Over caffe’, Pino and Ivan talked at length about restoration norms and goals here in Italy, in Belgium.

Before we left Labro, Anne and Ivan walked us through the village, showing us the other buildings in Labro belonging to their albergo diffuso.

Our tour ended on the balcony of the apartment called “La Casa dell’Architetto,” as it had once been their own home. Ivan dubbed the balcony, “the balcony with the most beautiful view in all of central Italy.” Have a look and decide if you agree:

Read about nearby Rieti, also in the region of Latium and close to Umbria
Read about a favorite eating spot not far from Labro
Read about a stop at La Baita enroute to L’Aquila