In the showcase of architectural gems that grace the city of Perugia, Palazzo dei Priori (“Palace of the Priors,” i.e, the medieval governing body of the city state) is arguably the crown jewel of the historic center – and one of the most stunning medieval civic palaces in all of Italy.
The palazzo spreads out along the main thoroughfare, Corso Vannucci (named after esteemed Renaissance painter working in Perugia, Perugino, i.e., Pietro di Cristoforo di Vannucci) ….
…and faces Piazza IV Novembre, backdropped by the Cathedral of San Lorenzo.
The two ruling powers of Perugia are thus counterposed: Palazzo dei Priori, embodying the temporal power of the medieval comune, faces the Duomo, unequivocally seat of the power of the Church, for here five popes were elected and three are buried.
The Palazzo dei Priori towers above the Cathedral, though – perhaps making a statement?
I remember as a student in Perugia years ago that we young people would gather on the steps of the Duomo, sitting and chatting. We’d never reflected though, on the tensions – at times – between the Church behind us and the civic palace in front of us..
Palazzo dei Priori – first built at the end of the 13th-century – was seat of this city-state’s, “first citizens,” the Assembly of the Priori (magistrates), that is, the highest political representatives of the guilds or confraternities – also called “arti “- of tradesmen, artisans, merchants involved in running the medieval comuni.
In Perugia there were 44 arti at the highest peak. The most important of these guilds were that of the Merchants and the Money Changers, both guilds therefore meriting prestigious seats – one decorated with splendid Perugino frescoes and the other with stunning wood inlay – and both ambiences right in the palazzo.
In 1303, a decree set the number of priors at 10: representatives of the 10 major arti (guilds). They would deliberate on all the most important public issues, remaining in office for two months. During that time, they were confined to the palace in a section of the building equipped with dormitory, dining area, kitchen area, and other ambiences of their living quarters.
Remaining closed in the palazzo assured distancing them from anyone wishing to influence political issues. (Note: also in Gubbio, the governing medieval magistrates, i consuli – did not exit their Palazzo dei Consoli for two months. Fascinating to see there the oldest toilets you’ve ever seen)
The Palazzo’s irregular shape, with its slightly wavy eastern side is due to periodic enlargements, motivated by an ever-shifting balance of power and carried out over hundreds of years by nearly a half dozen architects and countless artisans.
Architectural drawings for the building date back to the late 13th-century with the first part – on Piazza 1v Novembre built between 1293 and 1297.
The first extensions on the building were done in the early 14th- c and later in the mid-14th-c century, comprising the section where seat of the most prestigious guild –
Collegio della Mercanzia (Merchants’ Guild) – is located, an ambience of stunning late 13th-c wood-inlay:
Work continued and in the early 15th-century, a third extension was constructed: the section stretching up Corso Vannucci. In this part of Perugia’s
Palazzo dei Priori, the
Collegio del Cambio (Money-changers Guild) is built and then frescoed in the very late 15th-c by the great Renaissance master, Perugino:
Between the two prestigious collegi is the main entrance to the Palazzo dei Priori, the late 14th-c. Portale Maggiore.
And have you ever seen a more elegant entryway into a city hall?
Also called “Portale delle Arti” (“Doorway to the Guilds”) – as inside were the lodgings of the representatives of the guilds (the Priori) – the doorway was carved by local masters in the limestone of Mount Subasio which backdrops nearby Assisi.
Rich sculptural decoration frames the doorway….
…which is flanked by two limestone pillars on the backs of lions (symbol of the Guelfs- those who supported the Papacy):
(Photo – https://italianlimitededition.it)
The allegorical figures of Magnanimity, Fertility and Pride are depicted on the left pillar with Avarice, Abundance and Humility on the right pillar.
The pillars are surmounted by griffins – part eagle, part lion and symbol of Perugia – subduing calves, the symbol of the
Arte dei Macellai (Butchers Guild) – as this guild commissioned the work:
(Photo https://mapio.net)
In the arch, backed by the precious pink limestone of Mt. Subasio (quarried near Assisi), the three patron saints of Perugia – San Lorenzo, San Ercolano and
San Costanzo – seem to look out over those passing as well as welcoming those who enter the
Palazzo. In the mid-16th-century, the governatore pontificio (governor representing the Pope in his Papal States – which includes Umbria) decides to move into the Perugia’s Palazzo dei Priori, occupying most of the second floor (once reserved to the Priori) – that area which is now the splendid Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria:
The Priors are relegated to space on the ground floor. The proverbial sun is setting forever on the autonomy of the libertates comunali (the free city-states).
When is the architectural work of the Perugia’s
Palazzo dei Priori completed? Not util 1902, actually – with the completion of the semi-circular steps leading up into the
Sala dei Notari (Notaries Chamber).
Another Perugia treasure.
Click here to read about – and see! –
Sala dei Notari splendor
Read about the festivities for San Costanzo, one of three patron saint of Perugia
Click here to read about – and see – the 16th-c Papal fortress,
la Rocca Paolina
