After four memorable days together, I recenty bid arrivederci to Christine and Ivy, Len and Vivien. That Italian farewell literally means “until we see each other again.” Reassuring for me as these apartment guests/tour guests seem like old friends after our time together.
I wish to thank you, Christine, for the note you left me…and your thanks to me.
But my thanks go to each of you.
“Dear Annie,
Mille grazie. You and your farm have added immeasurable richness to our Umbrian visit. This has been an amazing experience and we will always remember the days spent with you – the sights were amazing – the food – the best of my travels.
But the richness of people and personalities (including yours) was unforgettable. Len, Vivien, Ivy and i will always hold these days in our hearts, minds and memories. And we hope to come back to you….we love you like an old friend.
Christine – PS Pino is very cute, too!”
Yes, we viewed some amazing sights, as mentioned…and how fortunate that every hilltown visit included an added surprise: often, even a surprise for me!
Like that meeting during our guided Assisi tour of a few of the over 1000 young people from 120 countries in Assisi for the Economy of Francis gathering with Pope Francis on September 24th.
And after our Assisi morning tour, our afternoon tour in Spello included other highlights and surprise, including the visit to innovative artist of Spello Elvio Marchionni gave us a person tour of his strappi (“strips, material torn off”) masterpieces, that is, his paintings on plaster which he has had permission to take off (tear offf) abandoned stuccoed buildings in the countryside, in towns, apply to canvas for painting:
In Spello, too, the discovery of la ruota (“the wheel”)in the Augustinian conventAnd on that same day, yet another added surprise: we joined in a guided visit with an archaeologist many meters UNDER medieval Assisi to see the mosaic floor of a 1st-century Roman villa – only discovered about 30 years ago.
We shared in a memorable day in Umbrian hill town Montefalco, surrounded by sweeping vineyards of the famed Sagrantino grapes.
More suprises were in store for us here in Montefalco.
In town, we stopped in at the 17th-century church dedicated to 14th-century beloved montefalchese saint, Santa Chiara di Montefalco
The grandiose construction incorporates a gem of a tiny frescoed chapel of the early 14th-century founded by St.Clare of Montefalco….and only the cloistered Augustinian nuns living in the convent adjacent to the chapel are one’s “entry point.”
I had called that morning to request a visit without success (it must have been prayer time for the nuns).
In a side chapel of the church, we viewed the reclics of St. Clare, including her heart with heart muscle resembling a crucifix, linked to a miraculous encounter of St. Clare with Christ in the convent garden adjacent:
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…and after viewing the relics, I rang the convent bell on the door nearby.
I had so hoped we’d be able to visit inside the Augustinian convent as well as the tiny frescoed chapel – and we did.
A smiling young nun with glasses in white veil (the summer habit) eventually answered the bell…and buzzed us into the chapel, adorned with 14th-century frescoes recounting the life of St. Clare of Montefalco:
…and how inspirational for each of us to hear Sorella Ilaria tell us about how she ended up in a cloistered convent.
As she recounted with joy, she was backdropped with trees said to have sprouted from Christ’s staff when he met Clare in that very garden.
Sister Ilaria had shown us that fresco, just before she leading us into the garden:
Sister Ilaria pointed out to us other frescoes in the area of the Augustinian closer, including one of St. Clare of Montefalco holding her heart embedded with the Cross near St. Augustine holding the Augustinian rule.
And near the fresco, Sister Ilaria took us to the cistern of the medieval cloister:
Montefalco “hidden gems” included our memorable lunch spot, Locanda del Teatro where co-owner Paolo greeted us with a wide smile….
…..and even the welcoming treat was a smile. As he served it, Paolo – with a wide beam – told us, “Please enjoy our welcome smile”:
Our luncheon was a veritable banquet:
…and each dish pleased the eye as well as the palate:
Before leaving, Paolo gave us each a gift: the recipe of his partner and superb chef, Pasqualino:
Mille grazie, Paolo, for that buonissimo feast.
And my thanks to tour guests, Christine, Ivy, Len and Vivien for sharing in such memorable moments as we discovered together to many Umbrian hidden gems.
View the video about the Economy of Francesco meeting in Assisi
Read more here about St. Clare of Montefalco
Read about another memorable visit to the Montefalco Augustinian convent
Read about artistic treasures not to miss in Montefalco:
Click here to read about another visit with Paolo at Locanda del Teatro
View the video of wine-tastings at Locanda del Teatro in Montefalco
View the video of the Montefalco wine-tastings festival
Serendipity in Umbria
Rome is grand, Florence is spectacular, and the Tuscan vistas around Sienna are justifiably beloved. But, under Anne Robichaud’s guidance, the surprises of Umbria have been our most memorable experiences in Italy.
In beautiful Spello and Montefalco, Anne introduced us to weavers and jewelry designers, and we were especially fortunate to visit a prominent artist’s gallery and studio. A six-course wine tasting featured regional wines that we are enjoying currently. In Assisi, we met attendees of the Pope’s youth conference, and toured rarely seen Roman excavations. Anne’s reputation even opened doors into cloistered monasteries. Meeting a young nun and having her explain the chapel’s frescoes was a true revelation.
Beyond the wonderful food and wine, Anne enabled us to meet the people and experience the ambiance of the hill towns of Umbria. But perhaps our happiest outcome has been getting to know Anne and her husband Pino personally. We have made real friends.
Ciao Annie,
Vivien & Len
A joy to tour with you all, Vivien and Len.
How about a reunion soon?
A joy to share all the wonders with both of you and mille grazie for your note!
Annie, next time you see (handsome) Paolo, please tell him Len and I have each made the carrot, onion and tomato soup recipe for our families. We did reduce the amount of cream a bit, but it was still out of this world.
And please tell (handsome) Pino, I miss his delicious homemade wine. We are forced to drink the store bought stuff.
Be well, friend, until we see you again, Christine
Christine, I will call Paolo tomorrow and pass om your message. I just shared your message with Pino about his wine and he replied with a smile, “il vino di Pino e’ divino!”
Thanks so much for this note which I had missed and Paolo and Pino both send their warmest “saluti da Assisi” to you both.