Gubbio: Medieval Majesty, Maiolica Wonders…and Not Only!

Gubbio always captivates and the medieval splendor of this Umbrian hill town gem enraptures on arrival…

…as recent tour guests, Vicki and Jim, now know.

Strolling the winding backstreets, medieval splendor is around every corner:

The many soaring medieval family towers of Gubbio (offensive look-out points) give testament to the need of protections and defense in the bellicose Middlel Ages:

Another element of defensive architecture – diffuse in Gubbio – is la porta della morte (“the death door”).

The “death door” is a narrower door, higher off the streets (many are now simply windows..or even walled in), flanking a winder door, both doors crowned with medieval pointed arches.

At night, the wider door was heavily bolted and access to the home was via the narrow door (death door), higher than street level and accessible only via a ladder (pulled in after that door was bolted).

created by InCollage

During our stroll, we stopped in to visit talented artisan Sabrina Matteuttci in the shop where she paints designs on the maiolica objects formed on the potter’s wheel by husband, Raimondo.

The display window of her bottega (workshop) is to the left of a narrow death door:

Hefty beams spreadd out over Sabrina’s maiolica mastery adorning the stone walls:

And Sabrina creates not only bellissima maiolica but also refined black bucchero – once created by the Etruscans. –

Sabrina explained fully the creation process – from polishing with boxwood to incising with liquid gold and platinum to the firing in an oxygen-reduction atmosphere:

After our arrivederci to Sabrina and her mamma…..

…we headed to a favorite Gubbio ristorante (recommended to me, in fact, by Sabrina some time ago), Ristorante Il Lepre, adjacent to one of the medieval entryways to Gubbio, Porta Romana:

Owner Stefano welcomed us….

…..and our feast was cooked up by his sister (and her collaborators). Jim chose a truffle/Parmesan fondue as his antipasto…

…while Vicki chose a buonissimo starter starring prosciutto, capocollo, pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese), tasty dips, various bruschette, including one topped with black truffle:

As we enjoyed our pasta dishes (both of Jim’s dishes starred truffle as he had chosen il tartufo menu), Stefano stopped at our table, asking with a beam “tutto bene?”

Si!, Stefano, not just “all well” but “all very well!”

And the feast continued: Chianina beef steak with shaved black truffle for Jim and crispy local lamb cutlets for Vicki:

Hard to believe there was room for dessert but tiramisu tempted Jim:

Vicki chose a refreshing macedonia (fruit cup):

And before leaving Gubbio, we simply had to top off our visit with another memorable treat: the funicular ride up Mt. Ingino – the mountain backdropping Gubbio – to the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo (housing the body of beloved 12th-century Gubbio bishop, Ubaldo – the patron saint).

I’d pointed out the Basilica to Jim and Vicki on arrival in Gubbio, telling them about the mad race up the mountain on May 15th in honor of St. Ubaldo to that mountaintop church. Attending that race should be on the COVER of the book 100 Things to Do Before You Die!

In any case, riding the funicular up the Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo to touch the three huge incised wooden Ceri raced on May 15th is a must for anyone visiting this medieval hill town gem:

After you arrive at the top and are helped off the funicular…

….your destination is just a few steps away: the Basilica di Sant’ Ubaldo.

Built in the 16th-century to house the body of Sant’Ubaldo (and the Saint reigns over the altar)…

…..the Basilica underwent restorations and transformations in the 16th and 18th centuries as well as the early 20th century.

The venerated three Ceri are in a side aisle and all visitors stop in front of these huge wooden “candlesticks” (reminiscent of the votive candles carried in the mid-12th century funeral procession of Ubaldo) to pay tribute:

The eugubini will touch or even kiss the venerated Ceri, as a young man did while we were there. I noted that he kissed the first Cero, that of San Giorgio.

I assumed he was a sangiorgiaro (one who carries that Cero – or has an affinity for it) and asked him his name. Giorgio! And he told me with a smile, “Si, aiuto a portare questo Cero il 15 maggio” (“Yes, I help to carry this Cero May 15th”).

We touched that Cero di San Giorgio together, although I have respect, logicamente, also for the other two Ceri (Sant’Antonio and Sant’Ubaldo), I am a sangiorgiaro my dear Dad was George).