A small hill town in the region of Emilia Romagna near Forli, Bertinoro, celebrates its centuries-old tradition of hospitality with an array of events in early September, culmination this year on Sunday, September 3rd.
The Saturday night prior, Pino and I had booked a hotel right off the main piazza – Piazza della Liberta’ – grand stage of festa events. The views from the breakfast room underscored the appellation of Beritinor as “il balcone della Romagna”:
After an abundant breakfast Sunday morning…
….we headed into the main piazza, steps away, where food tents were set up for the Festa dell’Ospitalita’, backed by the majestic 14th-c. civic palace, Palazzo Ordelaffi:
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On the other side of the piazza, the Colonna delle Anella (“Column of the Rings”), encircled with twelve iron rings, rises proudly. Yes, proudly for Bertinoro has prided itself as la citta’ dell’ospitalita’ since the 13th-century and that column – also known as “Ia colonna dell’ospitalita‘” – is linked to events at that time.
The Colonna is the emblem of hospitality itself not just in Bertinoro but for all of Emilia-Romagna.
According to the Bertinoro tradition, it was erected in the town’s main piazza in 1247 by local judge, Guido del Duca, and his friend Arrigo Mainardi to truncate one of the disputes (of many!) of the noble families at the time: this diatribe was over who would host the strangers and pilgrims passing through Bertinoro.
Twelve rings – one for each resident noble family – were afixed to the Colonna carved of the limestone of San Marino. Once the horse’s bridle was tied to one of the rings – or the walking staff of a pilgrim – the visitor would be hosted by the family linked to that ring.
As of 1926, this rito dell’ospitalita’ (rite of hospitality) has been the focus of Bertinoro’s annual Festa dell’Ospitalita’ in early September when red and blue Bertinoro festive banners drape from the windows of Palazzo Ordelaffi. The banners flank the palazzo balcony where official announcements were once made and now the bordeau banner of the Festa dell’Ospitalita’ announces to all the event:
That Colonna rises proudly across the piazza:
Backdropped by that Colonna delle Anella, symbol of hospitality, encircled by medieval banner-savers and nobility in elegant costumes, the official master of ceremonies soon announced the official gran finale of la Festa dell’Ospitalita”:
A visitor on horseback – in 13th-c. garb – dismounted and headed to the column, choosing a paper from one of the rings: his invitation of a noble family to hospitality in their palazzo:
The hosting noble family joined him at the base of the Colonna:
And trumpeters entered the piazza, joyfully announcing this festival of hospitality:
…followed by drummers…
…and medieval banner-wavers of all ages:
… and then nobility of all ages in elegant costumes….
For the 2023 event, the theme was “Terra – Da Vivere, Da Difendere” (“The Earth – to Live, to Defend”).
The banner-wavers had paid tribute to the Colonna:
Near them, children had released doves, symbol of peace
…as all applauded, including the nobility for this was the day celebrating that Colonna dell’Ospitalita’ – and good will among all
The mayor in mayoral sash joined the master-of-ceremonies to welcome all and announce the 12 recipients in 2023 of ospitalita’ bertorinese:
The 12 guests receiving Bertinoro’s ospitalita’ – lauded by the town mayor – included the fire departments and Scouts who had been instrumental in assisting those with damaged homes in the devastating early May floods in Emilia Romagna.
All twelve individuals and groups welcomed into Bertinoro homes or restaurants that day had been committed to saving the Earth, healings its traumas: each committed to Bertinoro’s theme of la Festa dell’Ospitalita,’ 2023.
See this video about la Festa dell’Ospitalita’.
Read here about the devastating floods of Emilia-Romagna
