An Artisan Market in Scheggino, Valnerina Medieval Gem

We headed to Scheggino in the Valnerina (Nera River Valley) one steamy July….

…seeking the cool, for the town perches over the Nera River:

The winding narrow streets are typical of the fortification architecture of a medieval castle; in fact, Scheggino

One still feels that sense of protection when wandering the Scheggino medieval backstreets:..

….and looking up at the fortifed tower on the mountain peak backdropping the town:

Pino and I enjoyed lunch near the Nera River at Le Naiadi Ristocafe…

….and what a perfect name for this spot alongside the Nera River for the naiadi (from the Greek “naien” meaning “to flow”) were the nymphs linked to freshwater, flowing water and springs brooks, wells, fountains, rivers.

Trout from the Nera River highlighted the menu and who had ever imagined that trout could highlight bruschetta? Pino relished his bruschetta alla trota…

…and roasted Nera River trout followed…

…..with finely-sliced potatoes on the side:

I enjoyed a simple salad and green beans seasoned with olive oil and lemon juice and then we headed out to explore the booths of the artisans lining the river.

On the 4th Sunday of each month, Scheggino becomes an open-air market.

Usually booths fill the main square of the town but due to the steamy July heat, the booths lined the river under the shade of trees:

One of the first artisans we met was Patrizia, working under a stone vault with concentration on her ricamo al tombolo (bobbin lace).

Behind her, the peaked white booths of other artisans spread out near the river:

Many of Patrizia’s textile creations line the stone wall near her….

….including finely-embroidered sacred images:

Patrizia and her husband shared a simple cold snack as lunch near her crafts:

Just outside the arch as we left behind Patrizia and her husband, colorful artworks were tied to scaffolding (mounted for the restoration work of the stone arch)…

…and art also lined a fence along steps leading up the hill:

A a young boy created his own art work on the ground nearby as a volunteer shared tips with him:

Not far away, works of art starred on the handmade bags of another artisan, works of Kandinsky, Miro’ on some bags:

…and tulips and poppies adorned other purses:

How to resist? We purchased a birthday gift here for our daughter-in-law (art historian!)

Nearby, we chose a gift for our daughter from the booth of artisan jewelery:

At another booth, a mercato artisan was intently at work on her mosaics made of tiny pearls:

Woodwork crafts were sold by a young couple. Cutting boards, bowls, planters were careully crafted..

They sold earrings, tops, blocks and other toys as well:

Two young friends learned all about wood varieties as they choise pencil boxes:

Typical area foods joined the artisan crafts, as well.

A couple offered varieties of garlic (aglio) as well as onions (cipolle):

Many opted for the aglione, a giant garlic grown in the Valdichiana area of Tuscany since Etruscan times. Pino makes that tasty pasta sauce, pasta all’aglione. No need to purchase, though: we grow our own.

Braids of onion varieties joined that giant garlic:

I was happy to see Geltrude Moretti there (her husband joining her – taking time off from his work on their land near Cascia) as I had met her at various aritsan fairs:

Their family raise the famous Chianina oxen, as well as horses and pigs and cultivate only organic spelt, barley lentils, chickpeas, the roveja beans (small wild peas of a dark color) and cicerchie (the world’s oldest legume, cultivate for thousands of years and thought to have originated in the Balkans).