Bolsena’s patron saint, 4th-century martyr Santa Cristina, is celebrated by the local bolsinesi with grandissima passione in two days of glorious events, July 23rd and also on the 24th (the Saint’s feast day and date of her martyrdom).
On the night of July 23rd, the beloved Santa Cristina statue (early 15th-century, Sienese) leaves her Basllica di Santa Cristina (where the Saint is buried), carried in solemn procession throughout the town up to the Church of San Salvatore, in the highest part of Bolsena and the most ancient area.The next morning, the procession follows the path in reverse and in both events, pauses are made in five town piazzas where – on wooden stages – the bolsienesi act out tableaux vivant that immortalize ten episodes of the martyrdom of the Saint, called “I misteri.”
A band plays as the procession of all the townspeople follows the statue of Santa Cristina from one mistero to another.The Saint, in an elegant blue garment with golden motifs, holds the two arrows which figure in the final mistero, La Morte (“Death”):
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The venerated statue of Bolsena’s beloved martyr will return to her Basilica after the misteri….
In the main square, Piazza Matteoti, all gathered to view the mistero “la Caldaia” (“The Cauldron”) depicting the immersion of the 12-year old virgin in a cauldron of boiling oil and pitch. Legend tells us that Cristina “entered singing the praises of God as if it were a refreshing bath.”
In a solemn still life, the young woman interpreting the Saint in this scene stood firmly, eyes raised heavenward, as her torturers mimed feeding the fire with kindlling and pouring boiling oil Into the cauldron.
On the 24th, as I headed to the Basilica di Santa Cristina to view the final mistero, La Morte, I passed many young people in Roman costumes with snakes intertwined on their arms: they’d participated in the mistero I Serpenti (“The Snakes”) in which the venomous snakes had turned on those torturing th Saint while not harming her at all.
The serpent handlers seemed to be enjoying thenselves,,
…..stopping to let passers-by touch the reptiles…
…..and snapping a selfie or two:
As i approached the Basilica di Santa Cristina, site of the final mistero, La Morte, I encountered a smiling group of young women in brilliant red, probably having just participated in another martyrdom scene, Le Frecce (The Arrows). They’d come to view Bolsena friends acting out the final mistero.
As at every mistro The band played, annoucning the event, with the red curtain of the stage still draawn shut….
…but soon to open on the mistero finale:
Immobile, the figures mourn the death of the Saint, her hand holding the two arrrows of her final agony, the Archangel Michael raising his sword behind her.
Even the young children to the Saint’s right are immobile for the scene….
…..as wekll as
…as well as those to the Saint’s left….
…..never moving near the immoblie adult figures, one holding a palm, symbol of a martyr saint:
And as all applaud with enthusiasm, shouting out loudly, “Bravi, Bravissimi!“, the heavy red curtain will close on the final tableau vivant.
..And then it repoens again, with all applauding each other..
