During the week before Easter, the Umbrian farmwomen bake the traditional Easter cheesebread in their outdoor stone bread ovens. Here is a recipe for la torta di formaggio – thanks to my friend Christine Hickman, top chef and cooking teacher – do see www.sonomarcella.com
Note: In the country, the farmer’s wife would make a yeast “starter”, a firm mixture of yeast, flour and water, and have it blessed before using it to make the bread.
The bread was then often decorated with a crucifix made of the dough. In years past when there were no home ovens, the bread was taken to the local forno (oven) for baking. 3 cups all-purpose unbleached flour 1 ounce yeast 1 cup grated aged Pecorino cheese* ½ cup diced young Pecorino cheese* 3 large whole eggs 1 large egg yolk 2 tablespoons lard 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil ¼ cup butter ½ cup milk Salt and freshly ground black pepper Dissolve the yeast in ½ cup warm water and let rest 10 minutes.
Put the flour in a heap on a pastry board, make a well in the center and add the eggs, lard, olive oil, butter, Pecorino cheeses, milk, salt and pepper, together with the yeast mixture. Knead thoroughly, at least 10 minutes, to obtain a soft, smooth, elastic dough.
Form into a smooth ball and place in an oiled, deep, fired-clay or tin-plated copper casserole* in a warm place. It should rise two or three times its original volume. Bake the bread for about 1 hour in a preheated 350°F. oven.
The crust should be golden brown, and the loaf will sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Remove from the baking dish and allow to cool on a rack before serving. Makes a 1 pound loaf *You may substitute Parmigiano-Reggiano for the 2 types of Pecorino called for in the recipe. Young Pecorino (Pecorino fresco) is not readily available in the USA, and using all aged Pecorino will produce a bread with a very strong flavor.
Gruyere or Emmanthaler can also be substituted for the young Pecorino only.
*The baking container should be round and tall, much like a 2-pound coffee can, which will work in place of the container called for in the recipe.
If using a coffee can, be sure to oil it well, and watch carefully as it may take up to 15 minutes less baking time.
