“E vien Calendimaggio..” As the medieval ballad intones, “Calendimaggio will soon be here.” All over Assisi, you’ll see the signs of feverish preparation for our stunning medieval celebration of spring’s arrival, Calendimaggio: workers pound together the bolts of the bleachers in the main square, Piazza del Comune, while across the piazza, others hammer planks for the building of the stage jutting out from the Temple to Minerva, 1st BC. Immense flags – one blue (for la Nobilissima Parte de Sopra) and one red (that of la Magnifca Parte de Sotto) – already fly in front of the Roman temple. Tasks complete, the workers head into a medieval backstreet of the piazza to the taverna, open as of the end of April. Elderly men in medieval costume hand them panini di porchetta and ceramic cups of local vino rosso.
[lcaption]Up go the flags of the two Parti in the main square[/lcaption]
La Taverna is the point of social aggregation for the Assisani all during early May. In the evenings, animated groups sit at long plank tables under the mighty stone vaults sharing wild boar stew or legume soups. There’s only one topic of conversation: who’ll win our three-day medieval pageant, Sotto or Sopra (sometimes called, simply “la Magnifica” or “la Nobilissima”)? Groups of red-jacketed young people (Sotto) might be in one corner, taking a break from their work building sets or medieval farm equipment or medieval weapons – or whatever Sotto’s organizational team needs for this year’s events. In another corner, kids in blue sweatshirts (Sopra) discuss their work plans for the evening.
[lcaption]All gather in the Taverna during Calendimaggio[/lcaption]
Both a red and a blue flag flutter off the massive Gothic pointed arch of the Taverna entryway, but if you head downhill to the right as you exit, you’ll be in la Parte de Sotto with bright red banners overhead, blending in with the fiery geraniums in window boxes. Near Porta San Giacomo, groups of red-jacketed young people work under red flags, sawing, hammering as they put together medieval shops, market stalls and medieval balconies.
But you have to wander Sopra, too: our family’s “side.” On a recent stroll in the backstreets, I stopped to talk to young Luca and a friend slabbing cement onto bricks, building a medieval bread oven. Around the corner, small boys practiced sword-fighting, caught up in “Calendimaggio fever.” Above, a periwinkle blue sky backdropped Sopra’s deep blue flags, waving over medieval alleyways . After a wintery cold and rainy week, the weather looks hopeful for our upcoming glorious three-day medieval pageant. And after all, Calendimaggio is a celebration of spring, of rebirth, re-generation.
E vien Calendimaggio..!
[lcaption]Luca works on a medieval kiln for Sopra[/lcaption]
Read – and see! – euphoric medieval passione in Assisi during Calendimaggio
Read more on our glorious Calendimaggio
Click here for more photos of Calendimaggio
Read about – and see – the pre-Calendimaggio festivities
Click to read about Assisi’s stunning medieval festival, Calendimaggio
Click here to read about pre-Calendimaggio “fever”
Read about a late April a pre-Calendimaggio Assisi event
Click here to read about – and see – the “blessed” beginning of Calendimaggio
Find out the signs that Calendimaggio is “just around the corner”
Click here to read about singing in May in Umbria
Read about an early May Umbrian festival not to miss
Click here to read about passione in Umbria’s astounding May festivals
Click here for more of the festival on YouTube
Click here to see pre-festival preparations, hear the medieval music – and FEEL the passione!
Annie your article is so well timed. I am in bed recuperating following a total knee replacement. Plenty of time then to recall this time last year when we celebrated Callendamaggio with you. Jack and I feel so privileged to have shared this with you and the amazing group of people you had gathered. Next time we visit Assisi I will be able to race up those narrow with ding roads now I have a new knee,
Go Sopra
Warm regards