According to legends, a myriad of la Madonna images have miraculously arrived in Italy from the sea. No one knows when the venerated Byzantine Madonna Greca image arrived in Isola a Capo Rizzuto (Calabria) but legend dates the arrival of la Madonna della Madia – not on a boat but on a raft – into Monopoli (Puglia) in the early 12th-c. Three hundred years later, another pugliese Byzantine Madonna – Santissima Maria della Libera – beached on the Rodi Garganico shore.
Countless miracles have been attributed to the beloved 14th century la Madonna che viene dal mare (“the Madonna coming from the sea”), found on a Salerno beach, having floated in from a sunken ship coming from Constantinople. The Madonna della Civita’ painted on wood in the 8th century, beached miraculously (locked in a wooden coffin) off Gaeta, south of Rome, after 54 days floating around the Mediterranean: she had been “launched” off Messina, Sicily by devout monks trying to save her from invaders. Another Sicilian Madonna, la Madonna dell’Angelo of Tindari, was hauled out of the sea in fishing nets in the 16th century and Lampedusa’s Madonna arrived on the island from the sea about the same time.
A Madonna once arrived on the island of Lampedusa from the sea, too.
A century earlier, near Custonaci on Sicily’s west coast, a French ship returning from Alexandria, Egypt, seeking refuge from a furious storm, headed into the nearby cove, Cala Bugato. Miraculously – thanks to an image aboard of the Virgin nursing the Christ Child, La Madonna del Latte (“Our Lady of the Milk”) – all the sailors were saved. The grateful seamen carried the Madonna ashore and promised to build a sanctuary there in thanks.
The venerated image of La Madonna del Latte – once carried ashore by grateful seamen.
Over the centuries, the early-15th century ex-voto (a vow, a thanks for a favor received) chapel for the Madonna was enlarged into a magnificent santuario mariano (a shrine dedicated to Mary), Maria Santissima di Custonaci, adorned throughout with the stunning veined marbles of the Custonaci area (known for its marbles and called “la riviera del marmo”). Embellishments on the shrine continued right up to the last century with the addition of the noble staircase and entranceway of intricate stonework.
The stunning veined local marbles adorn the shrine
Stonework intricacy
Stunning local stonework in front of the church
View of the illuminated main street from the church entry
Entrance to the Custonaci shrine
Children played on the church steps the night we were there during the late August festivities in the Madonna’s honor. Just below, Custonaci’s main street festooned with white lights overflowed with strolling couples and families licking gelati at outdoor cafes, enjoying the lively music of the brass band playing in front of the Sanctuary. At the other end of the pedestrian walkway, the local youth orchestra played, young musicians with furrowed brows reading their music sheets in concentration. The youthful musicians accompanied the children’s choir, little ones singing their hearts out – if not always in key – for la Madonna
Children playing on the church steps
Custonaci’s main street festooned with lights
Local youth orchestra plays before the Madonna image
Little ones sing their hearts out for their Madonna
….and a brass band plays on the steps of the shrine.
The celebrations go on for four days, culminating in the re-enactment of the arrival of la Madonna Santissima di Custonaci (a copy, as the Madonna never leaves the Santuario) on an ancient boat, other fishing boats surrounding her, creating a sort of “maritime procession.” Sailors in period dress will bring the image ashore, the bishop there to bless the image, thousands of the faithful from all over Sicily awaiting on the shore and then following the stonemasons bearing Her in solemn procession to the Custonaci sanctuary.
We weren’t there for “l’arrivo” but we felt the custonesi devotion for their Madonna a couple nights prior as volunteer guide Lia took us around il Santuario, recounting us the history, the legends. with a fervent passione though whispering…..so as not to disturb those in prayer.
Lia tells us all about the shrine’s history
In front of the venerated image, Pino asks Lia about the Madonna’s arrival
We missed the Madonna’s arrival from the sea..but read about it in all the Sicilian papers
After Lia’s appassioned tour of the Santuario, I asked her if she knew anyone named Brucia in Custonaci, knowing our California friend Louise’s family was from there. “Right over there,” Lia smiled, pointing to the only other couple in the church. She took us over to meet a tall balding man in a yellow shirt, Giuseppe – Louise’s cousin! – and his elegantly-dressed wife, Rosa. We all gathered at the altar together for photos for Louise (and her husband, Jim).
..and so our Custonaci visit even included a small “miracle” of Custonaci’s venerated Madonna.
Connecting with Giuseppe and Rosa in front of la Madonna di Custonaci
Read about our favorite place to stay near Custonaci
Click here to read about a favorite eating spot in Trapani, not far away
Read about nearby San Vito Lo Capo
Read about Scopello, another western Sicily gem
Anne…. Loved it …How could I not? It brought tears to my eyes and a strong pull to make a very soon visit to my family in Custonaci. Thanks fot this wonderful article on the celebration of the Madonna di Custonaci.