Ristorante Il Vecchio Molino on the outskirts of Lubriano remains a “sensory overload”: for the stunning view from the terrace, for the enticements to the palate. Not far from Orvieto, it’s even worth the drive there from Assisi just for lunch. It might take over an hour, but what landscape splendor as you drive:
Recently, Pino and I headed there enroute home from Lake Bolsena (a favorite week-end getaway for us): his first time, but not mine. We’d booked: no chance of getting in on a Sunday without a reservation. The views from the ristorante terrace – and the parking spot – take in the splendor of Civita’ di Bagnoregio, straight across the gorge – and the town of Lubriano, off to the left, balanced on the edge of the gorge.
Enjoy the vistas, then push open the curtained door and get ready for another sensory overload. The chatter of guests at all the tables mingled with the clatter of silverware, the “whoosh” of the swinging kitchen doors as servers Katiuscia and Jessica dashed with plates of goodness to the tables. I knew Barbara would be in the kitchen, cooking up the specialties of the Alta Tuscia, that hilly area north of Viterbo, south of Tuscany and bordered on the west by Lake Bolsena.
And her cooking never disappoints. Pino started with a tripe salad while I relished the pistachio ravioli. For a second course, Pino chose the grilled porcini mushrooms (announced by a painted wooden sign as you enter) with a side or roasted potatoes. I wanted to try another “Barbara dish” I’d never tasted before but the ravioli had been filling: Jessica kindly brought me a half-portion of rabbit with mountain herbs.
Pino always passes up dessert. The only exception? If ricotta is an ingredient……
Barbara’s ricotta-pear tart won him over. Pistachio semifreddo for me.
And near the end of our feast, Barbara came out of the kitchen to chat with guests. The tables were emptying. Guests were heading for the door.
Most would return again soon.
Read my first visit to Il Molino Vecchio link to
Read about Lubriano’s famed miraculous Madonna
Click here to read about nearby Bolsena – and why we love it
Click here to read about other Bolsena treasures
Read about a memorable day at Bolsena
To read about Lake Bolsena’s July Living Tableaux, click here.
Click here to read about another Lake Bolsena gem.