Rolling around in huge metal bins over hot coals, chestnuts pop in the night in the medieval backstreets of Arcidosso, Tuscan mountain village. When the husks slip loose on the roasted chestnuts, men shovel them into white paper bags. The locals of this Monte Amiata village line up with visitors for the roasted chestnuts at this southern Tuscany Festa della Castagna (“Festival of the Chestnuts”). Some munch the hot goodness as they stroll the festa, others buy bags full for roasting at home on wood stoves.
Arcidosso, where chestnuts reign in late October
Chestnuts whirl on huge rotating bins manned by arcidossini
A white paper bag of roasted chestnuts to much as you stroll along
A happy customer with chestnuts for roasting at home
For the last two weekends in October (twenty-ninth edition this year), the chestnut reigns in a rich program of events during the last two October weekends. Lectures on the “noble chestnut” and book presentations on the subject draw some and the stands offering artisan crafts, food specialties of central Italy draw everyone. At many a stand, the chestnut stars: chestnut creams, cakes, pastas, flours, liqueurs at one stand, artisanal chestnut beers at another.
At many stands, chestnuts entice in the culinary treats sold
In the Arcidosso village bakeries, chestnut pies, cakes and pastries fill display cases and crates of chestnuts are for sale in front of the local fruit shop. At an outdoor booth, groups of local women offer their tempting homemade sweets, chestnuts the enticement in each one.
In bakeries all over Arcidosso, chestnut star
Local women create chestnut temptations
Throughout the weekend, medieval crossbowers, bands, street musicians, choral concerts animate the festival.
And as night draws in, festival visitors fill the vaulted medieval cellars to feast on wild boar, soups with chickpeas, porcini mushrooms and chestnuts, pork roast with chestnut/apple sauce and chestnut/pear flans. Local volunteers cook up the goodness, with chestnuts starring in many a dish…. but not only.
The medieval cellars all over town fill up with locals and visitors ready to enjoy the goodness
Enjoying the goodness at the Arcidosso festival..
Local volunteers cook up tasty dishes
All over Arcidosso, friends and families gather to feast at this festival
We found spots at plank tables in the cellar where parents of the children in the local ski school cook together, their eager children serving at table. Their ski teacher seats all diners and handles reservations. The ski teacher welcomes seats all diners and handles reservations. Part of the income will be contributed to the FESTA but part finances the ski school up on Monte Amiata….where snow will blanket the chestnut trees this winter, their chestnuts long harvested and savored at the October Arcidosso festival.
Ski school parents and children team to cook and serve in their medieval cellar
Starting off our dinner with pasta all’amatriciana.
Pasta all’amatriciana.
Greta serves up wild boar for Pino
Pino finds the wild boar “buonissimo!”
Albachiara brings us a chestnut cream dessert
Chestnut cream dessert – heavenly!
Little Asia proudly shows us her skiing photo taped to the medieval cellar wall
Read about another wondrous Umbrian festival starring chestnuts
Read about chestnut lore
Read about wondrous Santa Fiora, not far away from Arcidosso
Read about Santa Fiora’s porcini mushroom festival
I love chestnuts! How creative these cooks are and the setting is so beautiful! I need to just move there…….
this town and festival look amazing….i never think of chestnuts in desserts!! wish i could have been there with you!
Judy, Joan, a not-to-miss festival..but then again, there must be hundreds (no thousands!) of don’t-miss-in-Italy events!
Oh my goodness – mouthwatering! I can smell them roasting, hear the shells cracking … The taste of autumn.
Another of your festivals to add to my list! Thank you 🙂
YES, Glynis/ a gem of one!
When I spent time in Italy during Oct, remember coming across the chestnut roasters. Once again, your beautifully crafted narrative has placed my imagination in this quaint spot. I’m always so moved by the Italian way of celebrating the bounty of the earth with emphasis on family & community. And also, your description of the food & the pics, well, I hope no one saw me almost lick my screen! Thank you, Annie!!
The aroma of the roasting chestnuts manifests itself in your telling of the story. What joy there is on the faces of those celebrating at the festival. Thanks for another beautiful chapter in what it is to live in Umbria, Annie.
Janet, mille grazie for your warm warm comment – and Steph, loved and appreciated your note, too!