At dinnertime on a summer night, a small trattoria perched on a volcanic rock precipice outside Lubriano dishes out a sensory overload. It hits as soon as you sit at your table…
Driving east from L’Aquila, Pino and I were in search of “three sisters”, le tre sorelle. After a wondrous trilogy of events, an elderly key-keeper – who welcomed us into his home…
On our Marches motorcycle trip a few years ago, we stopped in San Ginesio, once a fortified medieval castle (as were many of the marchigiani hilltop towns). The golden tones of sandstone…
Our Marches region motorcycle explorations took us down from San Giustoon a serpentining dirt road to the main highway leading to nearby Tolentino. Encircled by softly-rounded hills Tolentino’s medieval streets lead to…
Hilltop pastures, live oak and chestnut woods, springtime-green fields of wheat lined the twisting roads our motorcycle followed into the region of Le Marche on that spring day a few years ago.…
You won’t have the basil variety highlighting il vero pesto genovese (“the true Genovese pesto”), but this pesto recipe of a Genovese friend is closest you’ll ever get to the vero pesto…
A short distance south of Rome, pristinely white houses of Sperlonga stack up like children’s blocks on the rocky promontory jutting out over the Mediterranean. Follow the labyrinthine alleyways towards the 16th…
If you’re not sure where to find a bit of Paradise on earth, just settle for Eden on a lake, the Hotel Eden of Lake Bolsena. Just about an hour and a…
I missed Woodstock – but I was in Naples on January 7th for the addio to Pino Daniele. How not to be with the napoletani for their final tribute to beloved poet/songwriter…
The tall medieval watchtowers on Lucignano’s main piazza are testament to its bellicose history: ferocious battles raged when nearby Arezzo, Siena, Perugia and Florence vied for dominance of this hill town perched…