As an Umbrian newspaper put it the day after Gubbio’s May 15th la Corsa dei Ceri, the “winner” is the festival itself.
La passione of the eugubini triumphs that day: it’s palpable.
Feting St. Ubaldo, patron saint of Gubbio and 12th-c. bishop, la Corsa (“race”) of three saints crowning huge wooden pyramidical structures (Ceri) is about speed but not about first arrival at a destination: il Cero di Sant’Ubaldo (patron saint of stonemasons – and garbed in a yellow mantle) always arrives first at the Saint’s burial place, la Basilica di Sant’Ubaldo, at the top of Mt. Ingino, backdropping Gubbio.
Il Cero di San Giorgio (patron saint of merchants) follows, the Saint’s royal blue cape flying in the breeze during the dash. Il Cero di Sant’Antonio – the Saint (patron of students and farmers) outfitted in black cape – is the final saint to enter the Basilica.
The order is that. Always. May 15th joyously unites all – no matter the Cero dearest to you – in a euphoric celebration of Gubbio’s Santo Patrono, Ubaldo.
You can feel la passione for the Saint, for the Corsa dei Ceri, as soon as you arrive in Gubbio that morning: the limestone medieval hill town of Gubbio is splashed with the vivid colors of yellow, blue and black festive banners fluttering on windows and balconies.
In the piazzas, all gather to applaud the bands, announcing the festival’s start, their familiar Ceri songs peaking the emotions of ubaldari wearing bright yellow shirts, sangiorgiari in royal blue and santantoniari, in black.
….and then come the hundreds of Ceraioli or the carriers of the three Ceri (each weighing over 300 k.) who’ll carry their Cero in groups of twenty all day throughout Gubbio…….and then up the mountain (in about 8 minutes) just after sunset.
I would never be anywhere but Gubbio on May 15th.
Highlights?
*Seeing – and feeling- la passione in eugubini of all ages:
*Joining the crowd in front of the 14th-century city hall, Palazzo dei Consoli, to cheer the three Ceri born out triumphantly, and the three Saints which will top them as well as the three ceramic pitchers (for the “baptismal” water of each Cero).
*Joining all to wave our hands in the air like the flags of Gubbio’s medieval flag-bearers at the top of the steps, flanked by the trumpeters: our salute to the Ceri
*The strong emotions which take over as the three Ceri are raised up and then run around the flag in the piazza on the shoulders of twenty panting ceraioli. How many times? Three, of course.
*Seeing Sant’Antonio stop and bow to an elderly couple leaning out a window – a Cero tradition.
*Together with “the locals, ” following the bands throughout Gubbio’s labyrinthine medieval backstreets (and dancing with them, too!)… more fun if others join in – as Liz did!
*Sharing festive sweets and drinks with the many eugubini who open homes – and hearts – to the band and to visitors all day….
…….and even more of a celebration if shared with others! Liz and John, mille grazie for joining in the passione this year. And now you understand why Gubbio’s Corsa dei Ceri has a single winner: this glorious festival itself.
Read more on why I just cannot miss la Corsa dei Ceri, May 15th, in Gubbio
Click here for more on la Corsa dei Ceri
Read about Gubbio
Read more about the Ceri – and la passione
Click here to read about Assisi’s amazing May festival, Calendimaggio
Read about another Umbrian festival with Ceri similaritites
For more on La Corsa dei Ceri story, click here
Not to be believed until you see it
See and feel the emotion of the Alzata on YouTube
Click here to read about La Corsa dei Ceri in Jessup, Pennsylvannia (!) run by descendants of Eugubini.
Read about the Ceri passione of the little ones
Read about “Ceri fever” in Gubbio
Read about Ceri emotions
Read about three “Ceri moments”
Read about the June 2nd celebration of the Ceri Piccoli
Read about our 2017 May tour full into Gubbio passione
Read about the May 2017 tour group’s Perugia discoveries
Click here to read about – and see! – the unforgettable (also!) 2016 May “Annesitaly Inside Umbria Celebration
I went to the Corsa dei Ceri 33 years ago. The evening before the steep roads were laced with candles. Yes, an amazing celebration that I’ll never forget. Years and years later, took my mother to Gubbio and what a wonder for her that was!