In Deruta, “Citta’ della Ceramica,” a Warm Welcome Awaits

In preparation for my ZOOM presentation May 8, 2021 on Deruta, I needed to see the Museo Regionale della Ceramica, but for now, that museum – like many – is closed due to COVID restrictions.  Thanks to the assistance of a friend, I was able to talk to the Assessore alle Politiche Sociali,  Cristina Canuti, who immediately offered…

Deruta’s Maiolica Wonders: the Key Ingredient?

What’s absolutely essential to the production of bellissima glazed earthenware, maiolica?  Passione. I very recently spoke to five young women in “la citta’ della ceramica,” Deruta – each one carefully masked – as they worked with painstaking care on the painting of objects in preparation for the second firing in the kiln. They were happy to answer my questions as…

In Deruta, Maiolica Splendors in the Church of San Francesco

Probably built upon Roman foundations and later devastated by the Goths in the 6th-century and later by the Lombards (6th-8th centuries), the ancient names of Deruta (Ruto, Ruta, Rupta, Direpta  Diruta) all give testament to the “breaking down” or destruction and ruin of of this strategic site. Perched on a hill not far south of…

Santa Maria degli Angeli: from an Umbria Basilica to Los Angeles

Yes, it IS grandiose the 16th-century Franciscan Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli rising up majestically on the plain below Assisi. At first site, one wonders about the reaction of St. Francis, Il Poverello (“the Little Poor Man”) had he ever seen the massive Papal basilica built over his beloved tiny hut-like chapel Porziuncola (“the Little Portion”) and the…

Assisi’s War Cemetery: Leaving with Gratitude

Assisi spreads out serenely on the hill backdropping the Assisi’s War Cemetery where over nine hundred white tombstones stand stalwartly in straight, evenly- spaced rows. like the rows of the proud soldiers buried there who had once marched straight and tall, heads high, behind their commanders. Initially known as the “British Empire Military Cemetery,”  the…

Eremo delle Carceri: an Assisi Mountain Retreat

At over 2500 feet above sea level on the wooded slopes of Mount Subasio backdropping Assisi… …the retreat of San Francesco, Eremo delle Carceri –  called “the Hermitage” – remains a silent place of retreat and seclusion. As of September, a Tuscan Franciscan, Father Simone, has served as padre guardiano (“father custodian” – that is, the…