Near Deruta, Giuseppa Opens Home and Heart

There’s no doubt about it: Giuseppa opens her heart as well as her home to us as she serves up a rural feast. Can’t you just see the joy in her face? ……and what pride, too, as she serves up her homemade tagliatelle topped with a meat sauce of veal, pork and goose. All meats…

A Sagra Near Assisi for Top Umbria Cuisine

Up on the hill, Assisi backdrops the small (pop. 2500) village of Rivotorto,  where Umbria’s traditional rural cuisine draws the locals – and not only! – for nine mid-August evenings of feasting, ballroom dancing and more. A variety of pre-dinner events highlight this sagra (a food festival where local volunteers do the cooking), ranging from a…

Gnocchi with Peppa…..Without the Malocchio

How to refuse when Peppa calls us to ask,  “Ho fatto gnocchi oggi. Venite a cena?  (“I made gnocchi today – coming to dinner?”) Si, Peppa.  Subito. What a sauce Peppa had made for those gnocchi:  her olive oil, a bit of onion, tomatoes from her garden, a basil leaf or two, joined “pezzetti di…

A Stay in Our Assisi Apartment? Let Our Guests Tell You!

I really don’t need to write much about the month-long stay in our Assisi countryside apartment of friends Dawn and Louise, here with Louise’s two delightful daughters, Ella (13) and Christia (10). Their photos transmit the pleasures we shared. Their comments, left in our guest book, say it all. Mille grazie, Louise, for your note:…

Bolsena: Treasured Wash-day Memories

On an August Saturday night, groups of musicians and singers filled the Bolsena piazzas and wandered down the town’s winding medieval alleyways. With laundry baskets at their feet or on their heads, the singing Lavanandaie della Tuscia (“The Washerwomen of the Tuscia area”) harmonized together in front of Bolsena’s 13th-century San Francesco church. They enthused everyone………

In Lubriano, Just an Ordinary Italian Lunch

As we entered a favorite eating spot in Lubriano, the sign at the entrance already enticed:  fresh porcini mushrooms on the menu that day at Il Vecchio Mulino (“The Old Mill”). I knew Pino would be ordering them and sure enough, they joined his contorno (“side dish”) along with roasted potatoes. Chef and owner of Il Vecchio Mulino, Barbara, brought…