Spoleto’s Hidden Attractions

“Don Matteo”,  the Italian TV show about an insightful priest who often aids the local carabinieri in crime-solving, has switched locations:   episodes are now being filmed in Spoleto, rather than in Gubbio (much to the chagrin of the Eugubini).   Scaffolded for years during anti-seismic restoration following the 1997 earthquake,  Spoleto’s Roman (the 1st c. AD theater), medieval (the Duomo, the aqueduct, the Papal fortress) and Renaissance (Fra Lippo Lippi’s frescoes) glories once more attract the tourists and – now – film crews.
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Say “Cheese!” in Vallo di Nera

Even Italians photographing their friends urge them to say “Cheese”!    (After all, with the word “cheese”, your mouth widens to a smile; saying “formaggio” forms a downward curve like a frown).   One June Sunday in the Nera Valley, “formaggio” was on the lips of everyone (literally, figuratively):   “Formaggio di pecora qui!”  “Prova il nostro formaggio con tartufo, Signora?”   “Che buono, questo formaggio!”   “Signore, assaggi questa bruschetta al formaggio!”…  
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Pinoli in Petroio with Pino

Pine nuts are the leitmotif of this dinner, “architect Nicola affirmed as he served us his tasty first course: tagliolini (small tagliatelle) seasoned delicately with a tidbit of garlic, a fistful of wild fennel (“picked just a few hours ago”) and a handful of pine nuts.   After a private visit to the Etruscan collection of tiny Petroio with Nicola (he’d designed the museum interior), we had followed him and engineer, Claudio, through the windy backstreets of this tiny southern Tuscany town to Nicola’s home, passing the towering chimney of the town kiln enroute. Known for its terra-cotta craftsmanship, terra-cotta works adorned the Petroio fountain, many a home – and Nicola’s garden.
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Eating in Tuscany’s Mugello Valley: Una Poesia

Our last trip to the northern Tuscany Mugello Valley was on a gray day but the sun comes out as you enter the Ristorante Sergio in Dicomano, bustling with activity, huge bistecche alla fiorentina spitting on the grill in the open fireplace.   Gianni flips the bistecche – and sizzling pork chops or lamb chops – with a fork and in the pass-through window to your right, you’ll see his sister Gabriela and beloved helper (“like family”)  Elena, topping bruschetta with wild mushrooms or ladling wild boar sauce onto fettuccine.
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The Island of Lampedusa: a Refuge

The island of Lampedusa, southern-most point in Europe, is where Africa meets Europe,  where the West picks up subtle influences of the Middle East.   Closer to Africa (just over one-hundred-fifty kilometers from Tunis) than to Sicily (two hundred kilometers to the north), Arab and Christian sailors crossed paths on this island for centuries, praying to their own gods in adjacent grottoes.   Near those grottoes today is the Santuario della Madonna del Porto Salvo (Sanctuary of the Madonna of Safe Haven) where the lampedusani often stop in to a whisper a prayer to their venerated Madonna,  after reverently touching her cloak.
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Floral Masterpieces for an October Papal Welcome

Excitement peaking in Assisi for Pope Francis’ arrival on October 4th for the Feast of St. Francis – and each day, the Umbrian newspapers leak news tidbits on the “surprises” under preparation for the Pope. One of the most splendid will be the floral petal carpet – infiorata – created by the floral artists of Spello and Cannara, two Umbrian medieval towns famed for the floral tapestries created each year for the Feast of Corpus Cristi (xosty days after Easter)
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Pope Francis, Anticipating His Assisi Visit

Assisi is in euphoria over the arrival here of Pope Francis on October 4th for la Festa di San Francesco.

Hotels have been sold out for months and the Assisians’ anticipation is palpable. We’re not yet sure about the day’s itinerary but Umbrian newspapers – and national ones – drop tidbits of enticing speculation now and then. We know that Papa Francesco has responded “si” to the invitation of all at the Istituto Serafico – housing over one hundred severely-handicapped children and youth – to drop in for a visit. read more…