In Assisi: Cheeses, Frescoes and Basilicas

This morning when I headed into the Caseificio Broccatelli to buy fresh ricotta, I mused that I might be living  an “only-in-Italy” moment. Perhaps a hackneyed phrase but  cheese shops aren’t usually right across the street from a majestic 16th-c Basilica. (Not to mention,  a Basilica built over the site where St. Francis died in…

Pasta ai Broccoli: a Pino Recipe

I had just made the broccoli for pasta ai broccoli  when Pino came home, peeked into the pot and asked, “perche’ non facciamo nel modo del cavolfiore?”  (“why not make it the cauliflower way?”) I knew what he meant: time to add a handful of pine nuts and the tiny sultana grapes of Sicily (uva sultana), as…

Black Pigs, Saffron and Mountain Wines

Groveling black pigs, sprouting saffron, the harvesting of mountain grapes and a banquet lunch turned an October outing with our daughter Giulia into “an event to remember.”  Giulia even did a video of memorable moments.  Enjoy: From our Assisi farmhouse, a twisting road through the woods led us  up the mountain, dramatic views all around.…

In Assisi, the Glory of Nando’s Persimmons

In past years while driving through the late fall/early winter Umbrian countryside, you’d spot now and then a tree with orange balls dangling on the scrawny branches, bare of leaves. No, not oranges but the last of the kaki (persimmons), orbs of brightness in the winter dusk, beacons of cheer in winter fog. For me,…

An Umbria Thanksgiving: More Than a Pino Turkey

As always, we celebrate our Thanksgiving the Sunday after the holiday and fourteen of us celebrated the Festa di Ringraziamento together this year. ….and today for lunch, I nibbled bits of our leftovers.. There was still a bit of our “re-invented” Waldorf  salad  (with yogurt and local grapes, our olive oil…and more), creamed onions (with Trinidad rum…

Near Assisi, an “Integrated Fight” for Fruit and Vegetable Goodness

What zucca magnifica we’ll have for our Thanksgiving: a splendid squash of brilliant orange pulp.  My favorite: la Marina di Chioggia variety. ….and from our favorite fruit and vegetable stand, that of the Migliosi family not far from Assisi. The Migliosi family cultivates all they sell with the lotta integrata method. “Biologico?” I once asked owner Roberto.  “No….ma che…

Roveja, the Mythical “Lost” Beans of Umbria

We’d first savored la roveja legume a few winters back in Cascia during the Umbrian mountain town’s winter festival starring this “lost bean.”            Cascia in January  Roveja beans and ground roveja flour for polenta That night in Cascia as we had sipped the tasty steaming soup cooked up by the…