In early July, they told us at Castelluccio di Norcia that the wildflower varieties were fewer this year and the colors less intense due to drastic climate alteration. May 2019 was cold and rainy and scorching heat blistered Umbria in June with no rainfall after June 10th. The result? A rather timid spread of red…
On May 15th, friends and I relished our serene drive from Assisi through lush green Umbria springtime splendor to Gubbio. But on arrival in medieval hilltop gem, Gubbio, I knew we’d leave behind serenity for beating drums, blaring bugles, lively band music and an explosion of full-blown passione – as every year on May 15th for la…
About the time we were seeing the first photos of proud papa’, Prince Harry holding his baby Archie, I was taking photos of many a proud papa’ (and proud mammas, too) at Assisi’s Calendimaggio festival: ‘ Passione for the medieval pageantry of Assisi’s early May glorious festival starts at an early age: ..and the fervor…
Heading to L’Aquila is always a ride of stunning splendor as we head through the mountains in southeastern Umbria into the region of Abruzzo. And on a recent trip, splendor awaited us in L’Aquila at lunchtime: of a gastronomical sort. The sizzling meats on the grill near the entrance were the sign: Massimo Madama and…
One day in early April, I found myself again on top of a Vespa: a trio of appassioned Vespa-drivers from Emilia Romagna – Roberto, Stefano and Stefano – had insisted on boosting me onto one of their Vespas for a photo. They’d just arrived in Assisi for three days of festivities sponsored by the Vespa…
Notre Dame’s most sacred relic, the Crown of Thorns, escaped the devastating fire of April 15, 2019. The circulet of rushes is thornless as the thorns had been dispersed throughout the world over the centuries as gifts from the emperors of Byzantium and later, from the kings of France. There are seventy thorns claiming authenticity…
Keegan and Francesca missed the traditional Holy Saturday blessing of their Easter cheese bread – but the one they brought us on Easter day was one of the most delicious we’d received. Easter cheese breads reign at our table on Easter Sunday morning: Peppa’s, too, was buonissimo – and the largest…
Outside of the French cloistered Franciscan Sisters’ convent, il Monastero di Santa Colette, small groups of grandmothers and grandchildren, parents and children, waited in anticipation, gaze directed up the street. A bespectacled nun in beige sweater and black veil waited too, hands folded, just outside the open door of their chapel. Up the street, the hollow deep…
On a recent jaunt into the Valnerina area near Norcia, what pleasure for the eye enroute (….and later for the palate). Like bright pink flaming sentinels, Judas trees line the winding mountain roads through the Valnerina (Nera River Valley): Medieval hilltop villages precariously top mountain outcrops Here and there, a church spire or a medieval…
I’d just intended to buy a thyme plant at Spello’s early April mostra-mercato (literally, “show/display market” or let’s just call it a “show-and-sell”). But there were other enticements, too, at this three-day market called “Subasio con Gusto.” Mount Subasio backdrops Spello (and Assisi) and this street fair centered on the herbs, plants as well as the…