Roman Assisi: Right Before Your Eyes

When talking about Assisi romana, we really have to cover two time periods: the before, the after. An Italic people settled on the slopes of Mt. Subasio backdropping Assisi in about the 6th-century B.C.  Not long after Pino and I had settled in the Umbrian countryside in 1975, I remember seeing bronze votive statues and a figure…

Assisi’s Subterranean Roman Splendor

If you have the key, doors open to underground wonders in Assisi.  Laura, dear friend of our Giulia and working in Assisi’s Roman Forum Museum, had the key(s) to two Assisi subterranean wonders. What an adventure with her recently. After a fascinating tour with Laura of the Foro Romano, we headed to one of our main destinations,…

In Assisi, Hidden Treasures in the Roman Amphitheater

Assisi’s Piazza Matteotti is not just an accessible parking lot on the east end of town….. …but also site of vestiges of Roman Asisium:   the parking area was built on the site of Roman structures, probably the circo (circus, site of chariot races), visible in the upper righthand corner of this map of Assisi romana.…

Assisi’s Calendimagggio Reborn…For an Evening

Covid has deprived the asssisani of their beloved May medieval festival, Calendimaggio, for two years now….….but on a mid-June evening, the superb Assisi choir, i Cantori di Assisi, filled the vaulted 11th-century Romanesque Church of San Pietro,  with the Calendimaggio May songs… …and to the ebullient joy of the locals, although masked (the choir, too) and distanced. The…

Bolsena’s Basilica di Santa Cristina: Two Prodigious Acts

Two atti prodigiosi – “prodigious acts” – are inextricably linked to Bolsena’s Basilica di Santa Cristina, named in of  honor one of the town’s patron saints, Cristina.  According to local legend, young Cristina was finally martyred after numerous grisly futile attempts, those scenes acted out throughout the town in tableaux  annually by appassioned bolsenesi on the vigil and day…

Bolsena Infiorate to Celebrate Corpus Domini

Bolsena celebrates in floral splendor the Feast of Corpus Domini, for after all, this feast promulgated in the 13th-century – and also known as “Corpus Christi” – originates with a miracle here in this lakeside gem.   The Festa di Corpo Domini also unites the town to the nearby Umbrian hill town of Orvieto  as you…

Il Punto Assisi: Still Uniting All

As I recently entered the gate leading into the cloister of the 11th-century Church of San Giacomo de Muro Rupto  (St. James in the Broken Wall),  I noted the sign indicating the Laboratorio di San Francesco. I thought about those summer days decades ago when I brought our Giulia to that laboratorio (w0rkshop) here for the programs…