Assisi’s Christmas Illumination

There’s usually a life-sized creche scene on the lawn in front of Assisi’s majestic Basilica di San Francesco, right  across the street from the Bar San Francesco of the Angeletti family. Since 1995, the Angeletti family, in fact, has worked with volunteers to set up the artisanal presepe (creche) with the help of volunteers each Christmastime.…

From Naples to Milan: Christmas Solidarity in Italy

Glorious Naples is not only the Italian capital of pizza but also of espresso;  in fact, here in Umbria if we wish to compliment the coffee of a local coffee bar, we might say, “veramente buonissimo – come a Napoli!” (“Really very good- as if from Naples”). Neapolitans are not tea-drinkers, for they see tea as…

Ceramics of Orvieto: Artisanal Masterpieces Spanning the Ages

Perched on a  porous volcanic rock plateau, the geology of Orvieto is characterized by layers of volcanic materials, such as  lava,  ash, and pumice, permitting the easy creation of caves, cisterns, tunnels and underground cavities over the centuries. Over the years, the orvietani have often uncovered remnants of medieval and Renaissance ceramic plates, bowls, cups, jars,…

In Orvieto, from Beato Angelico Majesty to Luca Signorelli Humor

As you enter the Cappella di San Brizio in the Orvieto Duomo (cathedral),  the venerated Madonna di San Brizio will be facing you,  reigning over the altar.  Constructed in the 15th-century in the place of the sacristy, in 1622, this chapel was dedicated to San Brizio, one of the first bishops of Spoleto and Foligno, who’d preached in Orvieto.…

In Orvieto, Finding a Talented Young Artisan

On Orvieto’s Piazza Repubblica – and there’s one in every Italian town, commemorating the birth of Italy, “the new republic” in 1860 –  the dodecagonal belltower of the church of Sant Andrea towers above the church and the adjacent palazzo comunale (city hall). The church – called simply “Sant’Andrea” by the orvietani –  is actually dedicated to…

Winter Jazz in Medieval Orvieto: Usually

Even “freddo polare” (“polar cold” – which for Italy means anything below freezing temperature) – never deters jazz appassionati from heading to Orvieto at the end of December for Umbria Jazz Winter.  We’re always there, too, celebrating our December 30th wedding anniversary. But not this year: COVID has voided Umbria Jazz Winter for December, 2020. Medieval Orvieto…