When we moved to Umbria to work the land in 1975, our farmhouse – without heat, running hot water, electricity, bathroom – rented for 25, 000 lire per month. Sound like a fortune? That would be about US $25 today. The right price as you can see here: Animals lived in the stalls below (la zona…
We headed through the magnificent Valnerina to a wink of a hilltown, Todiano, not far from Preci. The arched entryway to the village is testament to its origins as a 14th-c feudal castle. Above the arch and stretching to the right stands our reason for the jaunt to Todiano Palazzo Anzuini. The wounded regal facade…
For the Feast of Corpus Domini – sixty days after Easter – floral splendor carpets the medieval alleyways of hilltown gem, Spello, for their stunning festival, le Infiorate. Depending on the year’s climactic conditions, la fioritura (“the flowerings”) of Castelluccio di Norcia explodes near the lentil fields on the Great Plain (at over 1300 m) at the end of…
When I first took Pino to see the small apartment in the Assisi backstreets, he exclaimed, “Mamma mia! Perche’ mai vorresti questa piccionaia? (Why would you ever want this pigeonhole?)” I grinned and replied, “ah, you just gave me an idea for the name: a ‘nest’…but this will be a ‘tranquil nest’. As our guests…
Before you leave for a few days on paradiso, aka. the island of Ventotene, you’ll probably want to jot down a list of what to take: sunscreen, mask and snorkel, swimsuits, towel, good walking shoes, books, books and more books (this is a “literary island”, after all). And take note, too, of “not-to-miss experiences” while you’re there:…
When here in our splendid Umbria, “Italy’s green heart”, you simply can’t miss meeting and feasting with Umbria’s rural people. Just ask young Shelby from Georgia, here in June in one of our apartments with her mother and grandfather. How about that lasagna bianca of Chiarina, served up by lovely daughter Rossanna, Shelby? Other dinner…
Joe, Kim and young Shelby, such a joy to have you as guests in our countryside apartment….and Shelby, thanks for your “arrivederci” note to us and counting on your promise to come back: ….after all, our cat Nerone is waiting for you (and so are the goats!): …and Signor Umberto in Perugia hopes you’ll return…
The discovery of America also included the discovery of zucchini. As of June, zucchini are abundant in every Italian summertime garden and will star in risotto, pasta dishes, main courses, antipasti and side dishes Ever have so many zucchini in your garden that some just grow far too large? The following recipe is a perfect way…
As you stroll the medieval hill towns, look down as well as up: art is often on the cobblestoned piazzas and alleyways. The “Madonnara” artists re-created art masterpieces in chalk – and inspite of their appellation, the subject is not always la Madonna. Francesco, Mexican Madonnara often kneeling on the streets in Assisi, frequently creates…
Patron saint and early Christian martyr, Santa Cristina reigns in Bolsena – and in unexpected ways. You’ll want to wander through the Basilica di Santa Cristina, finding the early Christian catacombs, remains of a Longobard cemetery, medieval frescoes, Renaissance Della Robbia glazed ceramic masterpieces and the altar linked to a 13th -century miracle. And if it’s…