In Citta di Castello: Trattoria Lea

Black truffles are not the only temptation on the menu at Trattoria Lea in the northern Umbria town of Citta’ di Castello: But shaved fresh black truffles highlighted many a dish guests were enjoying at Trattoria Lea recently….  ….from homemade tagliatelle to gnocchi: Those black truffles starred in many a meat dish, too. In the kitchen,…

In the Marches Region, a Mountain Agriturismo Near Lake Fiastra

I was contemplating the views spreading out all around us…. …..sitting in front of our agriturismo (farmhouse B&B) in the Sibiillini mountains in the Marches region. Appropriately called “Alti Pascoli,” (“High Pastures”), the agriturismo is perched at 830 meters, overlooking gently rolling wooded slopes. Our simple but charming room was at the top of the metal stairs flanking the farmhouse.  …

Citta’ di Castello: From the Etruscans to Alberto Burri

The people from Assisi are assisani, and those from Perugia are perugini.  From Spello, spellani.  The citizens of hilltown Montefalco are montefalchesi and derutesi live in Deruta while folignati live in Foligno. But can you guess the name of the inhabitants of the northern Umbrian town near the Tiber River, Citta’ di Castello? Castellani?  Castellini? Castellesi? You are not even close. The locals of Citta’ di…

Bolsena’s Feast of Santa Cristina: Even Serpents Take the Stage

In elegant ancient Roman garb, blonde-haired Greta told me with pride about her performances in Bolsena’s July 24th celebration of the lake-side town’s patron saint Cristina, I Misteri di Santa Cristina (those scenes depicting the martyrdom travails of the town’s 4th-century Saint). Greta has performed ever since age 12. “And I’ve played Santa Cristina twice!,” she…

Touring Spello: Encounter with a Great Artist

Spello, Umbria medieval gem, entices right from your first glimpse as you pull off the highway: Spello enchants for its medieval architecture, a splendid Renaissance fresco, recently discovered Roman mosaics, and stunning flowering backstreets: But when exploring Spello, you simply can’t miss seekng out local artists and artisans, linking past artistic traditions to the present.…

An Assisi Tour with Many a Surprise

Not all my Assisi guided tours begin in the same location and I certainly don’t generally launch a tour  with tips on how to choose the best gelato. I did that, though, when sharing Assisi wonders with the two young daughters and niece of Mallory recently: And the enthusiasm of Paige, Presley and Reagan was not…